My husband and I are tiling our new custom built shower stall with Subway tile and we have been told 2 different things to do....can someone offer a tie breaker solution for us. Some people tell us that we must use the Orange Membrane (often seen on Holmes on Holmes) sold at Home Depot (for hundreds of dollars), to further water proof our Shower Stall Walls. Others say that the concrete board we have used is sufficient and we don't need anything further as the tile mastic is waterproof enough. My husband and I are worried (after all our hard work) that our shower walls will leak or get water damaged if we do not use the VERY PRICEY orange membrane product. We are happy with just using the concrete board backer if this is sufficient...we do not feel the need to go above and beyond if it is NOT necessary. Are we fine to lay our tiles directly onto the concrete board? Our Tile Guy said he would use AcrylPro to adhere the tiles to the wall. Is this the best solution or should he seal up the seams with a thinset mortar first?
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Thanks for the advice, although this is not the answer I was hoping for as it just means more $$$$. Arghh! Thank you though. I appreciate your opinion.
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If not, you can put poly sheeting on first, overlapping the edge of the tub and then the board. You also need to tape the seams between the cement board pieces with alkali-resistant fiberglass tape and thinset. Be sure to use a powdered thinset rather than anything premixed.
Sorry, but another question. Are you talking about Redguard or Ditra? Did you do the shower pan, etc, or are you just doing the tiling?
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I want to tile part of my existing shower stall at the bottom half aprox. About 3 or 4 feet from the shower base. The drain area is sound, What steps do I take to waterproof the walls and srounding lower half from water leakage.
The lower part that I retile will be a different pattern and design, to make motre attractive looking
Thanks for help
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My husband and I are tiling our new custom built shower stall with Subway tile and we have been told 2 different things to do....can someone offer a tie breaker solution for us. Some people tell us that we must use the Orange Membrane (often seen on Holmes on Holmes) sold at Home Depot (for hundreds of dollars), to further water proof our Shower Stall Walls. Others say that the concrete board we have used is sufficient and we don't need anything further as the tile mastic is waterproof enough. My husband and I are worried (after all our hard work) that our shower walls will leak or get water damaged if we do not use the VERY PRICEY orange membrane product. We are happy with just using the concrete board backer if this is sufficient...we do not feel the need to go above and beyond if it is NOT necessary. Are we fine to lay our tiles directly onto the concrete board? Our Tile Guy said he would use AcrylPro to adhere the tiles to the wall. Is this the best solution or should he seal up the seams with a thinset mortar first?
Meagan,
Use a single pre-molded shower pan with drain center hole. The base will have a top 1/2" lip. The wall covering overlaps the lip before tiling. The most economical installation using a ferro cement board (Wonderboard, Hardiboard, etc.) as a wall surround is easiest with a Quickset pre-mix filler. This is done to create a level scratch coat surface at joints and corners. After the scratch coat is cured and smoothed out, trowel on an even mastic sealer adhesive layer for setting the tile into the mastic. Let that set as per the manufacturer recommended curing time before using a final grout between the tiles.
If you are using an acrylic type scratch coat for sealer and adhesive, some tilers will fill the tile spaces at the same time. This can make cleanup difficult as if the tile is not set first, it will move if not set properly. The cement surround will be impervious to leaks if done adequately. Even if polysheet is used behind the boards on the wall and a leak or sweating does occur, the polysheet will still force water to migrate to below the pan floor. Surface finish sealing is most important to make sure a grout seal is properly cured and maintained. Nm
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You can also use Roofing Felt to provide a Water Proof seal behind your backer board. Just make sure you overlap it by at least a quarter and if you are still worried use some Roofing cement to "glue" the felt together. It's a LOT cheaper than the membrane.
Krazyhomeowner (Oct 3, 2010 03:35 PM):
Felt leaks water thru it and will cause mold behind the walls. Source:
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Personally I wouldn't worry about it. The cement board is impervious to water. Seal joints with thin set and nylon tape and you will be fine. The tile and grout will repel water, the cement board will not absorb any water that should get through a grout joint. Wasn't long ago that we were using drywall as a backerboard, now we are using impervious cement board and someone wants to add a plastic liner behind that. What's next, waterproofing the plastic.
As far a Holmes on Homes and other TV shows, remember that these are TV productions, put out for you entertainment, not necessarly you education. Some are about as realistic as the reality shows and the old time westerns. Guess who sponsers the production, the same people who make the expensive orange stuff.
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Harold is correct, you do not need any membrane at all if you used cement board, wonderboard or Hardibacker board, etc... The orange stoff at Home Depot is for flooring on concrete. Concrete floors will always crack and the orange stuff allows a very small amount of slip to absorb the cracks movement, not needed for a shower stall. Use modified thinset to set your tiles. I also recommend a epoxy stain proof grout.
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Hello and Happy New Year,
Here is our problem. We remodeled a bathroom and tiled the shower walls and floor.
The exsisting shower base was painted concrete. We sanded the concrete, then tiled,using a grout with latex. A couple weeks after, we noticed tile and grout coming up.
When we...
Question:
Current shower drain (2" pipe) runs 5 feet, under slab, to vent stack (5" cast iron vent pipe) of toilet. Will need to move the drain 3ft to wall for new tub.
After moving the drain, the complete length of the pipe will still be around 5 feet.
We will have to reduce the drain line...
I purchased a house with an unfinished half bath. The shower base was not installed. There is a cast iron pipe coming up through the slab.there is a drain leaded into the pipe with a flange and a liner that is cut off,and a threaded 2" drain screwed into it,it has been there a long time and I...