I don't have very many details, since I don't know where to start. We live in South Carolina, and our home is just one story. We have a well with a pump, the water pressure inside the house is very strange. When you turn on the water in the house/tub, it may trickle for up to 4-5 minutes, and then we will get a blast of full pressure, then it will start to slow down again. This issue has been going on for months now.
In the garage we have a tank, which I guess is some type of water filtration system to pull out the sand in the water, not sure if that helps.
I really don't know where to start.
Also, I have a Sprinkler System, which we don't use, and it does have a couple small leaks that I know of. I have been wanting to disable the Sprinkler system to see if there is some underground leak, but I don't really even know what to do or where to start.
Any ideas ? I can provide more details hopefully if you have specific questions.
The first thing I would do is increase the pressure at the control box. I would increase it to 50 PSI cut off pressure. If you need instructions on how to do this click on back. Is there a check valve any where up on top? It sounds like you have a submersible pump with a faulty foot valve that's allowing the water to drain back down from the surface. The delay happens when the water has to be drawn up from below. I would install a check valve and see if that doesn't stop the delay. Good luck, Tom
I guess I will be having to call a plumber ? I don't have the skill set to install a check valve, or even know what it is. How do I find a plumber that works well wells ?
How do you increase the pressure at the control switch, by turning the screw down ? I have done that, I have turned the short screw down 2 turns and the behavior is not getting any better. Pressure in the bladder tank is 15.5 with tire gauge. (I clicked back but did not get anywhere)
I have another pressure control switch that I can swap out, it's a Square D pumptrol. Do you think this could help at all, someone suggested the pressure control switch may be bad. What do you think.
You either have a blockage or the pump and tank are not set up properly.
First blockage. The blockage has to be between the pump and the water heater since you experience the lack of volume on both the hot and cold. The only things between the pump and the water heater are the tank, the filter and two ball valves. I take it that you replace the clear plastic cover on the filter only , not the complete filter. I know that because of the rust on the old galvanized fittings. What is the red button on the filter?
One or both valves could be blocked but they are ball valves and not easily blocked. The remaining thing is the tank. It could have the bottom filled with sand if you have a lot of sand in your water.
The other thing is the proper set up of the tank. Twenty to 30 lbs is awfully low. Right now I don't know if that is the cut on or cut off pressure. Usual pressure settings are a 20 lb spread, usually cut on at 30 and cut off at 50 or cut on at 40 and cut off at 60.
First things first. Open a faucet, watch and listen to the switch. When the points close (the pump comes on) note the pressure. Close the faucet. When the points open (pump turns off) note the pressure gauge again. Also note how long it took to reach cut off pressure.
Turn off the breakers to the pump. Drain the entire system. Check the air pressure in the tank with a tire gauge. Adjust tank pressure to 30lbs. Adjust switch cut on pressure, that should be the short screw, to where points are just closed. Tightening should increase, loosening should decrease setting. Reduce tank pressure to 28 lbs.
Turn breakers on. Let pump run and adjust cut off pressure, should be tall screw, so that pump turns off at 50 lbs. Also note time.
Remember this time that electrical connections are live.
That part in the picture you can see is the spicket to let the water out of the bladder tank. When I open a faucet the pressure is between 20/30, when the pump finally cuts on, the pressure does not change on the gauge, it's always the same. I have yet to drain the bladder tank, I need a hose end to put on it, don't have it right now. Current pressure in bladder tank is 15.5 with digital gauge. I tried to pump it up with a pump that plugs into the cigarette lighter for the car, but it would not increase, I guess there is no need to try and get any more air in the tank if I have not drained it yet ? I wonder if a portable air tank would work for that.
If you have only 15 lbs of tank pressure I think you have found your problem. Go through the set up procedure as described. Not necessary to drain entire system. Turn both valves off. Turn pump breakers off. Connect hose to tank drain. Empty tank of all water. Pressurize tank with drain valve open. You can use a portable air tank if you don't have a compressor . You can even pump it up with a bicycle pump but it will take a while. Portable air tank may take more than one tank of air. Watch pressure gauge, it may be defective.
First turn off the power at the breaker box, then pull the cover off the pressure switch and you will see two spring loaded bolts secured with nylon nuts,(see image) One tall, one short. To increase the pressure, turn the nut on the tall bolt down. This will increase both the cut in and the cut out points. If you just want to increase the cut out pressure without increasing the cut in point then turn the nut on the short bolt down. Good luck,. Tom
If you have only 15 lbs of tank pressure I think you have found your problem. Go through the set up procedure as described. Not necessary to drain entire system. Turn both valves off. Turn pump breakers off. Connect hose to tank drain. Empty tank of all water. Pressurize tank with drain valve open. You can use a portable air tank if you don't have a compressor . You can even pump it up with a bicycle pump but it will take a while. Portable air tank may take more than one tank of air. Watch pressure gauge, it may be defective.
So far so good, I completed the steps, and so far it's working again. I will update tomorrow after it makes a full day. Thanks a bunch for all of your help.
Good. Give us an update tomorrow. Next thing you are going to do is put a stop valve on the sprinkler system. I agree with Tom that you are probably losing pressure back down the well line. But since you seem to suspect a leak in the sprinkler, I think that is where its is rather than the pump foot valve.
Good. Give us an update tomorrow. Next thing you are going to do is put a stop valve on the sprinkler system. I agree with Tom that you are probably losing pressure back down the well line. But since you seem to suspect a leak in the sprinkler, I think that is where its is rather than the pump foot valve.
I want to completely disable the sprinkler system, when you go back and reference the picture of my pump head earlier in the posting, is the pipe that has a T in it where they spliced in to run the sprinkler system ?? Could I not completely seal it off right there. I don't have a clue where any of the solenoids are in the yard. Some things you just don't think about looking into when buying a house ....
Yes, you can cut pipe as shown and cap. Cap both pipes. You can also install a PVC stop valve. Just need a valve, a coupling and a short length of pipe. Have to dig around lower pipe so it can move up and down about 1". Use the blue Wet or Dry PVC glue so you can turn pump back on immediately after.
Yes, you can cut pipe as shown and cap. Cap both pipes. You can also install a PVC stop valve. Just need a valve, a coupling and a short length of pipe. Have to dig around lower pipe so it can move up and down about 1". Use the blue Wet or Dry PVC glue so you can turn pump back on immediately after.
Thanks again. I think I understand, but I don't under stand what you mean about "dig around lower pipe so it can move up and down about 1"
I understand the two options, but I don't understand about the pipe and it even being able to move ?
Pipes fit inside of fittings. In order to get the last piece in you have to be able to move one or the other up or down to get it in. How would you get the valve of the attached sketch, in the line if you couldn't move either pipe up or down?
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