water heater TPR release after 4+ years

Is the water hotter than normal? This could cause the issue if one of the thermostats is malfuntioning. However, I would start by merely replacing the t/p valve as they do now and then go bad. That is a good cheap/easy place to start. If the problem persist, we will look further into the problem. I would say over fifty percent of the leaking t and p valves that I come across is simply a bad valve. Good luck and please let us know how things turn out.

That valve should only release under 3 conditions; temp above 210, pressure above 150psi, when broken. You have one of those 3 conditions. I'd connect a pressure valve to the drain spigot to see if it psi first

thanks ... I will do the PSI test and if okay replace the TPR ... and let you know. However if the PSI is higher ... my question would change to what cause the PSI to change all of sudden? (As you can see I am unexplained change averse!).

Some homes need an expansion tank to absorb the pressure caused when cool water is heated and expanded in the water heater.

Some homes have a PRESSURE REGULATING VALVE...if that valve fails then you would see a rise in pressure and water might drip from the T&P valve during the water heating cycle.

In this case an expansion tank will not help the issue, but instead, replacing the pressure reducing valve will...

Check the pressure and let us know what you find, OK?

Mark

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I do have a pressure relief valve - always have. Replaced it several years ago due to abysmally low water pressure - that has been great ever since. It sits above a finished ceiling (with access panel) and there is no water marking, so I don't think it is failing per-se ... at least not in the sense of leaking ...

I did put a pressure guage on the drain valve - it ran up to 150psi and the TPR started letting water out ... it is slowly going back down since the burners have kicked off ... so I am sure that meant the TPR is good.

One other strangeness about my water heater that happens (and I thought was unrelated) is that the beginning about 2 years ago the burners would kick off now and then with no pilot light left. Maytag said that was due to dirt/dust build up in the air intake chamber / filter. Since the h/w heater is next to my workshop, it was feasible I was getting more dust than normal (again, however this did not happen the previous 2 years for this w/h). Ever since then - and somewhat consistent with when I work (and especially sand) in my workshop, I have the problem with the burners going out before fully heating the water. And while there is an obvious connection, quite honestly the amount of dust is not that bad and I have had it turn off even when I haven't worked near it for a few weeks. I am now thinking that the temp shut off is somehow not working right - too sensitive to dust or (now that I have confirmed that the TPR is okay, and nothing has changed with my overall "closed" system) allows the water to heat higher than expected - thereby creating the pressure that causes the release. I keep the temp guage between A and B and it doesn't seem to all that much hotter (although I have to admit I have not tested right after the tank fully reheats). So my next cheap fix is to turn down the temp setting to less than A and see what happens.

sorry for the long post if you are still reading ... but wanted to fill in on all the variables at this point.

Pressure relief valve sits on the top side of your water heater. I think you mean a pressure reducing valve. If your psi is 150 then that valve needs to be adk=justed or replace. Most of us shoot for around 45 psi

sorry I wasn't very clear. I do have a Pressure reducing valve (just past the main shut off valve in my basement). I tested the pressure at the drain valve on the water heater - that went to 150psi and the the TPR started releasing water. After/since the water heater burners turned off, the Pressure has since fallen to 50 psi (as measure on the water heater drain valve). I also measured the pressure at the faucet for the washing machine and it too registered 50psi.

Should the water heater stay at 50psi while heating? or does the pressure increase but should not go above 150PSI?

i am sorry I have just realized I have been confusing the pressure relief value - I have been calling it a TPR ... what I was thinking about in terms of what I calle dthe pressure relief valve was the pressure regulating valve .. that seems to be good ..

I probably have everyone confused ... including me ... so ..

If my pressure relief valve on the side of the water heater starts letting water out at 150psi then that seems like it is working as expected.

However it does seem that 50psi the normal pressure within my plumbing system, and the water heater returns to that once the burners have heated the water.

So I still not sure if the pressure in the water heater is expected to go up during the heating cycle or stay at 50psi ...