I've seen this problem asked a few times before and I'm unclear about which situation my resembles and which direction I should take.
The Machine Drain overflowed for the first time yesterday. There had been some gurgling for a while and I think this situation has been brewing for awhile.
The machine drains into a PVC pipe about 4 feet high. The tube is just placed into the pipe. The pipe is not air sealed at the top. The pipe dips into the crawl space, then travels under the floor. About 12 feet later the kitchen sink hooks in.
When running the sink, I can hear gurgling coming from the washing machine pipe. When the washing machine runs, it sometimes overflows into the kitchen sink.
. . . back under the floor. After the intersection of the sink and washing machine, the drain turns downward and goes underground.
On the outside of the house, there is PVC pipe coming from the ground. It protrudes a few inches. and the top has some holes drilled in. I imagine that this is a vent. I don't see any connection with this vent and the sink - nor with anything else. Spatially, it is very close to toilet and upstairs plumbing light and farther from the 1st floor plumbing (kitchen and washing machine). But one possibility is that the recent snow and freezing weather has plugged up the vent. There is no problem with the drainage upstairs. The drainage in the kitchen sink is adequate, except for the gurgling sounds.
So in order of importance:
How do I prevent the overflow of water at the drain?
How do I prevent water from backing up into the sink when running the washing machine?
How do I quiet down the gurgling?
Someone more experienced than me can chime in here, but my guess is that your drain line is clogged somewhere downstream of the kitchen sink. When the washer drains, a lot of water comes down the pipe, hits the obstruction, and takes the path of least resistance--into your sink drain.
The washer drain hookup sounds fine the way you described it.
I think if you can clear out the clog, all these issues will go away.
Is that 4' piece of pipe 2" or what? Most washer need a 2" pipe but code does bot currently mandate it but in 2009 the code will require 3". If the pipe is already 2" then you should rod your drain. I don't think that PVC outside is any part of your plumbing. Its more likley a down spout drain or sump pump exit.
I'm pretty sure the 4 foot drain pipe for the washer is 1.5 inches.
The pipe under my sink is 1.5 inches and the pipe in the crawl space is 1.5 inches.
What does it mean to "rod your drain."
Should I snake my pipes? If so, what kind of snake should I rent/borrow/buy. I would prefer to snake from the under the sink as opposed to inside the crawl space - it seems easier to position myself, the crawl space is pretty gross, and it would be easer to reconnect the pipes in the kitchen. Going from under the sink, there is 3 - 5 feet of pipe before the washer line connects in a T-intersection. Then there is another foot that connects into an elbow piece that leaves the house and goes underground.
Regarding the PVC exit opening:
There is no sub-pump. It is located next to the downspout, but there is no evidence that the downspout was ever connected to it.
Rod a drain and snake a drain mean the same thing. Do not bother to snake with a 1/4" snake, go at least 1/2" and maybe one with retachable heads like cutters if they will fit into you pipe and elbows. I think you may have issues with that 1.5" drain down the road if you washer is fairly new or a Maytag. Newer models tend to pump more gpm so that's why the next code will move drains up to 3".
Thanks again for the help. The situation has improved, but may point to a larger systemic problem.
I borrowed a small handcrank snake from a friend and that didn't change the situation. So I rented an electric powered one for $25. It was hard for me to figure out what was blockage and what were elbows that were hard to get around. I did pull some stuff up - a ping pong ball size of fabricy and plasticy good. After an hour, it was easy to get to the end of the 25 feet snake than when I first began.
Now: The gurgle is gone. The washing machine no longer overflows. However, the washing machine drain downspout is leaking about halfway down at a joint. I wonder if the water is backing up so that it is still sitting 2 feet high and thus has an opportunity to leak out. While before it would back up over 4 feet high and overflow it now just backs up 2 feet high?
I'm fairly sure that this drainage system has no air valve. It goes directly into the city sewage line. I see no pipes that go upwards nor is there any air valve on the roof. [Should this be a new post?] I did a test by filling up the sink and then pulled the plug while holding my hand over the washing machine drain. I could feel some suction which implies that the sink is using the washing machine line as an air valve - and vice versa.
Yes you can keep adding to this post since its all related. Sounds like what you said, you made improvements but there may still be some debris, frequently lint. "the washing machine drain downspout is leaking about halfway down at a joint. " is this leak in the black rubber hose or the stand pipe? What is the stand pipe made from, cast iron or PVC?
The leak is in the stand pipe - which is PVC. There are two male pieces connected by a short piece that is female on both ends. The leak is on the bottom side of the short piece-connector. It's possible that in my tooling around I loosed this connection and that is why it leaks. But, I figure that if there wasn't standing water in the tube that gravity would act fast enough to prevent any leaking.
I could re-seal the joint using that 2 part pvc cement. Yet, I figure that will only be a band-aid on a larger problem.
I think its just a joint that cracked a bit when you were working on it. To do it right you should cut the joint out and glue new unions but if you don't tell anyone I said so just clean it, prime it and spread some PVC or All Purpose glue around the offending joint.
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