Master Bath Remodel.Removed tub and installed walk in shower.Did everything by the book,except didn't get the floor pitch to drain right.I have flat spots under the shower head and at opposite wall.Water sits and has to be squiged off to drain.I have removed the old tiles and mastic.I intend to install the same type of tile,1" square on a mesh sheet.I do not want to cut out the old mud floor for concern of damaging the rubber liner.I am in the process of trying to angle the now hardened mud to drain.Anyone have a,radical,idea on how to lay the new tile and get the pitch right by adjusting the thickness of the mastic?Or am I barking up a dead tree and need to pull out old mud?The real hurt is when I went on the net and found they make tools to help insure the proper pitch.The wife is not a Happy Camper!
I disagree with you on that advice, Tapout. Backerboard would still need to be pitched somehow and self leveler would separate from the mortar bed, or at least the potential is very good that it would, so I can't agree that this is a best approach! Never mind that the drain probably wouldn't acommodate the increased height.
In my opinion, the only realistic answer, besides ripping out and starting all over again, is to float the thinset mortar thicker at the edges and then set the tile lightly. In other words, make his own pitch using the thinset mortar and patience and expect for thinset to come out of the grout lines (clean as you go). Here, for example, Bubblechaser could use a 1/2" or 3/4" notch trowel at the edges and a 1/4" notch trowel at the center and meet somewhere inbetween the edge and the center and split the difference to finalize...should leave a pitched floor if done right.
This can be done, but it is messy and a pain! However, still beats ripping the floor out!!
Since I don't have the skill or experience to properly slope the thinset by eye, this is the way I would do it, but this is just me.
Assuming that this is a rectangular shower, I would remove the drain flange, chip out the existing tile, clean any residual mastic. Make me a number straight edges. The longest would reach from the drain to the corners. The shortest would reach from the drain to the center of the back wall. Then make one for about every three inches length in between.
Using the longest straight edge between the drain and the corners, and a torpedo level, find the highest corner. If the highest corner has sufficient slope to the drain, draw a level line around the shower using masking tape. If you want more slope, make a mark at the desired height and then draw the line around the shower.
Using thinset, build a 2 to 3" wide ledge around the shower, up to the level line. Let your ledge firm up enough to support your straight edges. Not dry but firm. After the ledge has firmed up, start troweling thinset about 6 or 8" wide around the shower next to the ledge, striking it off with the straight edges between the ledge and the drain. Then do another 6 or 8". Start in a corner, using the longest straight edge and switch to shorter ones as you work around to the side and the end walls.
When you have all the thinset down and properly sloped to the drain, let it set long enough to trowel. You should have 4 wedges sloped toward the drain. Trowel smooth pulling down on the sides and the ends and building up where the wedges meet (a line between the drain and the corners).
When thinset is dry lay the tile, using thinset or mastic.
Don't forget to block up the drain with paper or rags to prevent debris going down the drain.
It's interesting that my replies to your post #7 have magically disappeared. The same thing happened a few years ago when a plumber on this forum with over 50,000 posts didn't even know that the shower pan membrane is supposed to be pitched to the drain. "Never seen or heard of a pre-slope" he said. OMG.
He is the one that called me a bully, when in actuality he was the bully because he edited my reply and then blocked my replies to his accusations. He continued by making up stories and posted 3-4 more posts once he had blocked me. NOW THAT'S A BULLY!. BTW, I hope he feels better soon.
So, for my part in yesterday's post, I apologize.
Here's my problem; People come here for what they think is good accurate advice. They notice the "post count" and come to the conclusion that if you've posted thousands of times you must know what you're talking about. The higher the count, the smarter you are. But unfortunately that is not always the case.
The people that reply must know their limits, if they don't know the right answer they shouldn't answer. They should say so and perhaps recommend a way to find out. Instead they seems to answer so they look like they're active on the forum.
That is a dis-service to the OP and to the Forum. Makes the entire Forum look bad.
Hi all, Thank you all for your replies!I have decided to rip up mud and redo using MARK E Industries Quick Pitch Float Stick System.I wish I had known about it before.They have videos.It's listed under Goof Proof Showers.After watching the video ,I am confident I'll get it right this time.I have to say that the responses showed that old American ingenuity in face of adversity.Thanks again.
The video only shows the top pitch of the deck mud, they don't show the pre-slope, the one under the shower pan membrane. What are your plans? Did you know you're supposed to have a pre-slope? Water can't go to the weep holes in the drain if the membrane is flat.
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