I read another post that spoke about the toilet flange being about an inch below the new tile floor. My problem is similar to that. We put in a new tile floor that elevated it by the wonderboard 1/4", mortar, and tile. I borrowed a book from the library, okay quite a few books. One of the books said that I may have to purchase a flange extension. I went to Lowes and asked for a flange extension. He gave me something that has two wax free gaskets and what looks like the top of the gasket. There were no directions with the thing and no pictures in the book. I followed the book which said to caulk the gaskets and add gaskets until the correct height. So I put gasket, gasket and then ring but the ring made it too high. My husband was holding the toilet and was slipping and there was already a wax ring on it so I quickly took off the ring (the thing that looks like the top of the flange but pvc instead of iron or whatever) and let him put the toilet down over the bolts. I did use the new bolts on the low flange which made the connection from the toilet to the floor nice and sturdy. However, we haven't hooked up the water to it and have been keeping the door to the bathroom locked to keep kids out because we figured that flushing it with caulk around the gaskets that have not set yet, would be a bad thing. Now I am guessing that we'll have to take the whole thing back up again. I am just hoping that someone will say, "Oh, yah, sure that will work fine." We even caulked all around the inside edge of the tile. The reason for us not just taking out a gasket and putting the new ring on top of the first gasket was because the tile hole was just big enough for the existing gasket and the new ring does not fit inside of it. Yes, we are DIYers but only because we have to be. Someone said that DIYers are just trying to save money. We just need a toilet and don't have the money for a plumber.
I am a little afraid to use the toilet but REALLY tired of running downstairs to use the basement toilet. So I am wondering, does what I have described make sense or do I need to completely yank up the toilet and do something else? Help!

ballengerb1

"Oh, yah, sure that will work fine." There, I said it. So your floor is up about 1/2" from before. You should be OK but did you know you can buy an extra thick wax ring for this situation? Might get me one of those thick rings, $4 at Lowes.

914934

Yah, it would have been nice if the Lowes guy had told me about those too. Thank you so much for the reassurance. I will probably go ahead and buy the extra thick wax ring like you said but for now until I get to the store, I am turning on the water and unlocking the door! Thank you!

ballengerb1

The kids will love you for unlocking that door. Good luck.

speedball1

If you used flange extenders such as the ones I've put up, (see image)
in conjunction with a wax seal then you should be OK. The only way to test it is to put it into use and watch it. Good luck, Tom

doug238

i use a disclaimer so i will not get sued. i own and operate a current plumbing business. please don't take it as a personal attack.
what size is the pipe for the drain? they make floor flanges that insert into a 4" pipe, a 3" fitting, and a 3" pipe. i try to steer away from flange extensions. they leak.

Sineoflife

Unfortunately, when you raise the height of the existing floor, you have to put the toilet (or new toilet) in first, then tile around it, but you can do this:

Extensions work, but will fail unless you use a thin layer of industrial grade epoxy to seal it for cast iron, pvc glue if its PVC.
1) Seat the toilet back in the position it was before you took it off, sitting it on the new tile floor as close as you can to the general area where it was,(measure it out to the center of the waste opening of the toilet if you have to) or sit it on the bolts. Mark around the base of it with a sharpie pen or pencil depending on what you can see best.
2) Get a hand held glass or tile cutter and scribe the tile following the outside of the line you drew. Break it away from the inner part of the flange outwards with a "cold chisel, or something steel you can hit with a hammer. Don't be too careful as the caulking will cover that, and if you crack the grout you can fill it back in easily.
3) fit toilet into opening and seat on a new waxed ring, and only new. Use tub and tile caulking to cover and seal around toilet base, it'll cover the ugly cracks you might have made.
You should be all set.
Hope this helps....