Hello to all, newbie on the loose!

To give a little background, the shower base cracked, water leaked, floor got wet and mouldy, decided to search further and found toilet had also leaked at some point and subfloor wood now rotten , mouldy... so that's how I landed up here.
The intention is to replace the 5/8 ply after I have over engineered the frame for the subfloor.:D It will be covered with 1/4 ply which will then have a vinyl sheet on top.

Question 1 : With regards to the 1/4 ply laying, there appears to be more than one way to secure it , some call for a nail gun, others call for screws and then some recommend hammer and nails :confused:, Can any one shed some light on the correct method or benefits of one over the other.

I have also got rid of the "rotten and mouldy wood" :eek:

I have read through various posts about the toilet flange and subfloor "fixes" and I have a few questions relating to the procedure, particularly this one here in the post below!
https://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbi...ch-298016.html

In the above post, a good description is given, but, my question is, how is the height adjusted on the flange?
Is it as simple as not seating the flange all the way down on the 90 elbow, thereby cheating a little . There is about a half inch vertical and lateral movement in the waste pipe, at the flange end. The existing set up is 4 feet long, I think that a little flex is OK and part of the setup, is this a correct assessment !
BTW no strapping to support the pipe only the subfloor keeps it up. The pipe runs down at a gentle angle into the concrete floor.


I have included a couple of pictures

The two flanges are just to show what is out there!

Attached Images

   

1/4" ply for floor is no good. 1/4" ply will flex. `Use at least 1/2" but I would recommend 5/8".

Some use nail gun and ring-shank nails. But you have to be very careful here. They use "donut" adjustment ring so they don't break through upper play layer. Otherwise, nails head will cut through the ply and ply will disengage from joist.

Use screws. Screw 6" apart along sides and 12" in the middle. Also, use Liquid Nails on top of joists.

Terminate your 3" ABS run with new Street 90 - Street end pointing up. Cut hole in ply for the pipe. Dry test. Lay ply. Apply Glue. Attach closet ring. Screw to subfloor with brass / zink screws.

Let us know how you did...

Thank you for your reply.


Will do, thanks again

I am sorry to beat this issue a little more , it appears nothing is as it seems.
I have discovered that the closet flange(centre) is 13 1/2 inches from the finished dry wall.
I decided to "dry" fit the toilet , Cadet 3, ( 2 piece) and discovered to my horror:eek: that I could drive a truck through the gap between the tank and the back wall.
I need to move the whole toilet back a good 1", this will leave a 1/2 to 5/8 gap which is better and result in a 11" flange setting.
It appears that the last installers simply pushed the pipe( about 1 1/2 '') as far as it would go towards the wall and anchored it to the joist, seen in the above post. I am worried that over time the strain on the pipe will eventually lead a crack and leak.

So, these are my thoughts:
I will cut the abs pipe as described in the previous post, plus get an offset flange to reduce the gap. I am hopeful that this will solve my issues.
Now if anyone thinks I should stop sprinkling that substance on my cornflakes... I am all ears.

Thanks
Tailor

Tailor: you can use off-set flange or... use 45 bend, regular 90 and new regular flange.

We always install rough-in at 12" from ROUGH Framing. Some experts may disagree - but final effect is that tank is being nice and flush with the finished wall. That's what our customers want and ask us to do. Even Kohler, who in its installation instructions calls for 12" rough-in measurement from FINISHED wall is setting its toilets in its show rooms anywhere from 11" to 12" on center from ROUGH framing . Kohler Reps are scratching their heads, unable to explain to us why it is done that way...