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I've seen plenty about the opposite problem - maybe this is something less common: my toilet flange is above the anticipated floor level. I recently removed old tile from the bathroom floor, planning to install new tile. In so doing, I discovered that the old tile was set on about 3 inches of thinset/mortar - which had effectively built up the floor 3 inches. Now once that's been removed, I've got a toilet flange with a base/bottom approx 3 inches above the floor boards. Once the new concrete backing board and tile is placed on the floor, I'll probably still have a couple of inches of flange protruding from floor level. Is there a safe way to push the flange down into or towards the drain somewhat? I haven't checked for sure yet, but I think that it's a straight (unbent) flange - unless there isn't such a thing. HELP!
yeah i just got back from lowes and we saw those there, and while at the store i tried fitting it together with a piece of 4in pipe and it seemed too small to be secure in the cast iron pipe in the floor. And even if it did fit down there it'd still be too tall for the toilet.
Do they sell that Lennox sawzall blade at your average lowes/home depot type of place?
So we went to the lowes, the home depot and the local plumbing supply place. None of them had a diamond lenox blade. The plumbing supply people weren't very helpful or friendly but sold us a carbide lenox blade when we asked for something that would cut the cast iron pipe. It looks like it might take about an hour and a half with the sawzall to cut through the pipe. Though if this works I guess it's worth it.
You can see it in the basement. If we cut it from the basement, how would we install a new pipe?
I've called about 60 stores in the chicago area and no one carries the lenox diamond blade. Most of the chains(Grainger, Fastenal, etc) can order it but none of their branches even have it in Illinois at all. Tried calling Lenox customer service to see if they could tell me about distributers in Chicago but they couldn't give me places that sold the diamond blade specifically.
If you cut the pipe in the basement you would attach a 4"cast iron x 4" pvc mission style clamp...see pic. This is a shielded clamp....which means has a big SS shield all around the clamp..then have the bands.
Otherwise, can purchase a 4" 4 band (called husky) clamp all...see pic. I like these best 'cause have 4 bands to ensure no leaks!!
These will probably be available at the home supply store...but if tired of running around just go to plumbing supply house and get it!
So...cut the cast iron, then want to install the clamp, purchse a 4" pvc elbow, 4" pvc pipe, 4" pvc closet flange, cement, primer, wax gasket (with horn) and new pair of 5/16" johhni bolts.
That should finish this nicely....or just cut with sawzall like you were doing...up to you...
Hi Tinorose...I get all excited when someone says nice things...
Thanks..and as stated earlier..let me know if need anything else.
Also...want to be sure you know that once new flange (cast iron or PVC) installed, you will need to secure the flange through the flange, through the tile and into the floor!!
May want to pick up a plastic anchor kit (has carbide drill bit in it for drilling through the tile)...see pic. Then would mark holes, drill holes, set anchors, and then set flange tight to floor.
Just be sure to align the new flange to accept the bolts on center.
Well finally gave up after trying all day and buying blades and blades and flanges and flanges and visiting all the home supply stores about 7 times a day. We hired a plumber and paid $225 to just take care of it and install the new toilet. Im not sure how he did it but it took him about 1 minute and only a screwdriver to break off the cast iron pipe to the correct height.
I think if this hadn't been our only bathroom we could've done it but it was getting really old driving to mcdonalds everytime we had to pee
You have been astoundingly helpful though Mark. I now know more about flanges and the local sawzall blades market than I could have ever imagined.
I have the same issue as Alwaysbusy14 above, but I didn't see that it ever got resolved.
Problem: Closet flange is about 3/4 inch too high.
Facts: I am retiling. The old floor was a thick cultured marble, about twice the thickness of the tile I am using. Drain pipe is 4" PVC in a concrete slab. Flange is PVC cemented to the inside of the drain pipe. The flange extends to approximately 2.5" down inside the drain pipe. Thus, if I were to cut the old flange off at floor level, I would have a two-layered drain pipe to deal with--i.e., 4" drain pipe with a portion of the old flange glued to the inside wall of the drain pipe. So I understand from above that there is not a new flange I can slip inside the portion of the old flange. Concrete slab is flush against the outside wall of the drain pipe, so I can't merely slip in outside-mount 4" flange to the drain pipe. The only things I can think of, short of breaking out the slab, doing some digging, cutting the drain pipe below the surface, and starting anew are the following:
(a) Cut the old flange and drain pipe at slab level (I have to go that low to get beyond the bell shaped part of the flange) and chip out the concrete around the pipe enough to fit an outside mount flange over the drain pipe; or
(b) Use a hack saw or sawzall to cut the flange from the inside (but not the drain pipe) and then try and chisel out the old flange, after which I would replace it with an inside mount.
#1) There is not a flange available that will mount OVER the outside of a 4" pvc fitting....in this case, probably best to chop up the concrete and just cut out the old 4" elbow and flange altogether.
#2) The hacksaw and sawzall could also work....or not?? If you try this you would also want to apply some heat to the hacksawed pipe you are trying to remove...a heat gun for paint removal would help...but do it without *BURNING* the pvc...fumes are quite hazardous!! Be clear here though that if too aggressive, can *CRACK* the fitting and then you are back to chopping up the concrte to below the elbow and then replacing the elbow, entirely!!
#3) You could also purchase a 4" REAMING TOOL...see pic. They should be available at any PLUMBING SUPPLY HOUSE. I know one supply house that will "RENT" them to you...
Here, you would cut the flange and bell shape out with a sawzall so you can see the wall of the fitting and the wall of the pipe...then REAM the pipe clean as in the picture below.
Then you can install a new 4" street flange...although you may need to cut 3/4" off the flange before installing it....that make sense??
All three of these options work....all depends on how you want to tackle it...
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