Is there any freeze proof pipe that will survive freezing without breaking?

Are the pipes underground or in the open? Here is one product you could use to insulate the pipes. They do make faucets that are freeze proof. Meaning they have a thicker wall but they can still freeze inside.

Ref:

Aeroflex USA, Inc.<? If($title!='') { echo " | ".$title; } ?> | Insulation Tubes | Flexible Closed Cell | EPDM | EPDM closed cell foam | EPDM Foam | Rubber Insulation Products | Thermal Insulation Tubes, Thermal Insulation Sheets, Thermal Insulation

Hi Spickynitz,

In a case like this, about the only pipe/tubing that can withstand the expansion that can occur with freezing pipes without bursting (most of the time) is PEX tubing and fittings.

Check it out at this link:

PEX - PEX Products - PEX Supplies - PexSupply.com

Understanding that using a heat tape may be frowned upon as a fire hazard in a stable/horse situation like this I might still also recommend that you consider installing the newer SINGLE STRAND heat tapes under some pipe insulation. The newer types do NOT catch fire like the old two strand heat tapes. Check these out at:

http://www.tycothermal.com/assets/No...et_IM_0903.pdf

AEF Sales - Self Regulating Heater Cable

AEF Sales Products: Controls, Heater Cable and Accessories

You could have an electrician wire this all up with a switch so it would only need to be turned on during the worst weather.

That's my thoughts, but be sure to check in for other answers over the next day or two, OK? Here, we have plenty of experienced people willing to share their thoughts!

DO NOT USE INSULATION ALONE...ONLY ACCELERATES FREEZING. MUST USE A HEAT TAPE UNDER THE INSULATION FOR BEST RESULT!

Mark

The pipe is (will be) out in the open running along top of the front wall of the stalls. I plan to insulate whatever kind of pipe we try next but I fear it will still freeze overnight. I don't want to use heat tape or a recirculating pump because the power might go out and then the pipe will freeze anyway (and then it'd be a mess). Also we need 2 runs of 200' each so cost is an issue unless it's really fool proof. So I'm hoping for something simple and straightforward like, I don't know, 1" rubber hose wrapped in insulation? I see there's PEX but sounds like the fittings won't do well freezing so I'm still looking. Thank you for your time!

Insulating a pipe in your application will do nothing. The insulation will keep the warmth in when water is flowing but it will still freeze over night. In the old days we'd let the tap run at a good drip on very cold nights since moving water doesn't freeze as easily as stagnant what in a pipe. Your other option is to blow out the water lines at the end of the day. PEX fittings will survive freezing but not so with all Sharkbite and the like. A PEX fitting is crimped or clamped with a special tool and it will not slip of or crack. &#x202a;How to make PEX Tubing Connections.&#x202c;&rlm; - YouTube

Thank you very much.

Thank you very much. That YouTube video is excellent, thanks!

Assuming your piping to the barn is underground, here is what I would do.

Get a 5' freezeless yard hydrant. Be sure that it is freezeless and will accept a garden hose.

Get a two hose, hose adapter.

Get a check valve to fit hard piping in barn.

The freezeless yard hydrant shuts off water below ground and has a drain port that allows water in the stand pie to drain after the handle is closed.

Install yard hydrant below frost line. Dig a big hole. Line bottom and sides of hole with nylon fabric. Fill bottom of hole with gravel. Install hydrant. Put in more gravel. Cover gravel with fabric.

The purpose of the gravel is to give the water draining out of the stand pipe some where to go. The purpose of the nylon fabric is to keep soil from clogging up the gravel.

After installing hydrant, attach a 2 hose, hose adapter. Attach a short piece of garden hose to one side of the hose adapter .

Attach the other end of the short garden hose to barn piping with hose clamp.

Install a check valve in the barn hard piping some where close to the hose connection. For best drainage the barn piping should be below the hydrant and should slope downward toward the stable watering troughs.

The purpose of the check valve is to prevent all the water in the barn piping from draining back down the hydrant stand pipe when you close the hydrant.

When you think it might freeze, you simply open the other side of the hose adapter. That will allow air to enter the piping and the water in the stand pipe will drain out the drain port of the hydrant. Water in the barn piping will drain out the at the watering troughs. If you have valves at each stall you will of course have to open each valve to allow drainage.

I don't know what kind or size barn piping you have so you will have to figure out how to get it down to a size you can attach the garden hose.

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See Spickynitz,

I told you others would be along with other ideas...

Check it out at this links and I hope you found answers:



Measures practiced to avoid freezing in PEX pipes

How to prevent water from freezing inside the PEX pipes?