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ScottGem · May 18, 2006, 06:42 AM

Got a weird one. I have a toilet with (I think) a FluidMaster type float. Its got to be more than 10 years old.

Anyway, yesterday it stopped filling the tank. If I twist the bottom slightly then the tank will fill, but after flushing it doesn't fill again. So its getting water through the pipes.

I'm assuming I have to replace the unit but I figured I'd check in here first.

Scott<>

speedball1 · May 18, 2006, 07:05 AM

Originally Posted by ScottGem

Got a wierd one. I have a toilet with (I think) a FluidMaster type float. Its gotta be more than 10 years old.

Anyway, yesterday it stopped filling the tank. If I twist the bottom slightly then the tank will fill, but after flushing it doesn't fill again. So its getting water thru the pipes.

I'm assuming I have to replace the unit but I figured I'd check in here first.

Scott<>

Not so weird Scotty and you won't have to replace the entire ballcock.
This is a common complaint with FluidMaster ballcocks. Fortunately this is a easy repair.
Shut thewater off at the angle stop under the tank. Twist the plastic top of the ballcock counterclockwise and pull up. You will see a small rubber washer with a small hole in it. Pry it out and toss it. Purchase a replacement seal #242. Reassemble and your back in business. What happens is that some water swells the seal, in time, closing the hole off and stopping the flow of water.
Since you have given me such dynamite advice on my computer the very least I can do is return the favor. Good luck, tom

RickJ · May 18, 2006, 08:48 AM

Just a note: while you're at Ace, pick up a compression fitting stop valve and install it while the water is off to the house. With a couple pipe or adjustable wrenches, you'll find it not more than a 15 minute job.

Then if you ever have another problem with the toilet, you don't have to shut off to the whole house.

ScottGem · May 19, 2006, 06:20 AM

Well the washer didn't work. Had no problem in replacing it, but still no water flow. So I replaced the whole unit. A new one only cost $10. Took me less than an hour including draining the tank. Wonder how much a plumber would have charged to do it?

Scott<>

RickJ · May 19, 2006, 06:44 AM

Around here:
$65 trip charge
$20 for the part
$35 for labor (not including the stop valve)
$120 Total.

Saved yourself some bucks!
Did you do the stop valve while you were at it?

fredg · May 19, 2006, 06:47 AM

Hi,
Here in our local area, a plumber gets $70 just for the trip to the house. Other charges are then added for how long he/she works, plus parts. They usually get $30 per hour. You made out like a "bandit" doing it yourself.
I was going to suggest, earlier, just simply replacing the whole unit with a new one, at the cost you said, but didn't. Ten year old parts can wear out, and it doesn't make much sense to replace just a single part, when the whole thing is that cheap.

ScottGem · May 19, 2006, 09:43 AM

Originally Posted by rickj

Did you do the stop valve while you were at it?

No I didn't. The feeder is a pipe, not a flexible hose like on more modern installations. There was really no room to put another fitting.

So it looks like I probably saved about a C Note on this.

Sort of makes up for having to spend $120 for a gas cap for my car recently. ($20 for the cap, $99 for reading the trouble code behind the Check Engine Light to determine I needed a new cap).

fredg · May 19, 2006, 09:55 AM

Don't feel badly about the trouble code.
Paid $300 for a Dealer (Ford doesn't give out codes for some things to independent garages), to determine why my transmission was "slipping" or whatever. Found a computized code has "slipped", needed resetting, for the computerized control of the transmission. Transmission wasn't really "slipping".
The independent garage guy knew the problem, but could not get permission from Ford to enter the repair options with his computer systems. He could have done it for 1/3 the cost.