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It sounds like I need to replace the seats. Though, this is not a drip, the water is fully flowing.
When I removed the old spindle I noticed there was no washer between the main body and T-11. My new spindle came with a washer so I installed it there. Wrong?
There is always a washer between the valve and the spindle assembly. Double check to see if the old one is still in place....would keep the washers from seating properly for sure (explain the full flow). If old one is present then remove it and leave the one new washer and tighten all again...
In terms of the spindle assembly...see image. Are you sure you didn't leave the chrome ring behind in the valve?? If so, remove using a needlenose pliers.
If not, then you can try to change the washers only (available as a kit), or you can try to change the seats...see if that mates up better. Otherwise, you may need to replace that valve...*OUCH*
When I've worked on these older ones, the old stem worked, but left a drip. I changed the seats and all was fine. I also tried this on a couple other ones and couldn't change the seats (tools just rounded the crevices used to remove the seats) and had to change out the valve entirely.
Check for the chrome ring. Then go purchase the washer kit...cheapest bet here!! If you decide to change the seats you will need the symmons seat removal tools (hot and cold tools) and seats. Of interest, you cannot make/substitute for these tools...you MUST purchase their tools.
It could be that I never saw one of these. I'm in Boston, MA with some of the oldest plumbing in the country, but could simply be that I have yet to work on a 1976 model and you are out of luck and will need to replace that valve!!...
Finally, you can always call the symmons technical department....they'll settle this for sure!
If you dare, you could change the hot and cold seats...see images. This will make it so that the valve feels like new. Although, as previously stated, the seats may not come out...can be tough job!
If you decide to go for seat removal you will need to purchase the seats and the seat removal tools (see last image).
If you dare, you could change the hot and cold seats...see images. This will make it so that the valve feels like new. Although, as previously stated, the seats may not come out...can be tough job!
If you decide to go for seat removal you will need to purchase the seats and the seat removal tools (see last image).
The tools and the seats are available at any local plumbing supply store.
When you try this you need to set the tools into place and then...GO FOR IT!! Talk to your local plumbing supply counter guy so he can explain in detail. If you have hard water then this can also make seat removal/replacement hard...
Basically, just want you to be prepared for worst case. If seat removal fails you will need to access the old valve body from behind via access panel or from front via a remodeler's plate.
Not sure if I am being lazy or a chicken, but I am trying to avoid replacing the seats.
I shut off just the cold water and leaking stopped, so my guess is it is just the seal between the cold seat and the larger washer on the spindle that is the culprit.
I know the previous owner of the home was pretty handy and most things are in good working order. So I figure the washer retaining ring on the old spindle (see picture from earlier post) was removed on purpose. It wouldn't just fall off.
I removed this ring on my new spindle, reinstall. Turn the cold and hot water on. Bamn! No leaking.
Unfortunately, no cold water either. The washer must have stuck onto the seat and is preventing flow.
I don't get how the old spindle worked all these years without the ring, but mine doesn't. Maybe it was glued?
I guess I'm out another 35 bucks for a new spindle, plus more dough for the seats and tools.
At least I'm having fun, plus the wife and kids can use the bathroom since I don't have to kill the water any more.