Check out some similar questions!

twcinnh · Aug 27, 2004, 06:07 AM

The lead pipe and drain from my father-in-laws' bathroom is leaking and needs to be replaced.

I'm tempted to just remove all of the lead (only a few feet) and cast iron all the way to the entry into the main discharge. Currently the 2 pieces of cast iron have a leaded seal. How do I connect PVC into this pipe.

And, can the leaded seal be removed easily, or does it need to be heated. I'm guessing I can remove it with a screwdriver or something to dig it out.

Thanks,

Tom

speedball1 · Aug 27, 2004, 07:05 AM

Good morning Tom, I haven't seen lead pipe since the 60's in Tampa. ALL lead piping should be replaced.
They make No-Hub and neoprene couplings that connect PVC to cast iron. Just ask for them in the size you're working with. Since No-Hub is the more ridged of the two that's the one I would go with.
If the cast iron that you're going to discard has the bell end I just whack the cast iron bell until it breaks and then chop the lead joint out. However if I wish to save the bell end of the pipe I take a screwdriver and pound it down to where it goes into the okum and then I can lever up the lead all the way around the pipe. It takes a lot of heat and flame to melt out a 4" lead joint so I don't like to apply heat from a torch in a enclosed place with wooden joists and rafters. Good luck on your project. Tom

nohub · Aug 27, 2004, 11:49 AM

If you have a saws-all you can cut the hub off the cast iron. If you want to remove the lead from the caulked joint there are two methods: 1. melt it out with a torch, lead melts at approx. 750 degrees. 2. A special chisel called a pick-out chisel can be used to remove the lead. Another option would be to cut the fitting out and relace it with a no-hub fitting. Your plumbing wholesaler can help you with the material you need.

speedball1 · Sep 2, 2004, 08:57 AM

I really hate to correct another experts post but if you ever tried to Saws-All through a piece of 4" cast iron then ya better bring your lunch. Cast iron is very brittle and it's also very hard. It'll wear the teeth right out of a metal blade.
No-Hub tells us that, "A special chisel called a pick-out chisel can be used to remove the lead. "
This tool is called a lead pick and I have one.
No-Hub advises. " melt it out with a torch, lead melts at approx. 750 degrees"
Using a torch inside a wall or under a sub floor is very dangerious and defiantly not advisable. To solder a copper joint maybe, but to keep that flame in a closed area for as long as it would take to melt a 4" poured joint is asking for trouble.
This in no way cuts No-Hub down. He gave sincere advice and I welcome his comments.
However, this doesn't prevent me from disagreeing with him. Regards, Tom

twcinnh · Sep 2, 2004, 06:51 PM

I just got back from my father-in-laws a few minutes ago and saw your post speedball1. I was opening up the ceiling to see the rest of the cast iron pipe.

It all appears pretty simple the way it is laid out, except how to cut this cast iron? I think we've decided to leave the leaded hubs in place and cut the cast iron pipe, using a cast iron to PVC no hub coupling.

Needless to say my interest in how best to cut this pipe is increasing. The pipe is 65 years old and sure is hard. We were thinking of removing one length at the hub but they are all up against the timber and do not have good access all around. The pipe is horizontal, and only has about 1/4 inch of clearance at the top. So, I was hoping a reciprocal saw would do it. But, your right, that cast iron sure is hard.

So, how can this cast iron be cut? There's got to be some way.

Thanks for your feedback.

Tom

twcinnh · Sep 2, 2004, 06:53 PM

Addendum to above. The pipe I'm planning to cut is about 1.5 to 2 inches in diameter.

Tom

speedball1 · Sep 2, 2004, 07:12 PM

There is. You will have to open up the area enough to get a chain cutter around that piece of 2" cast iron. A ratchet chain cutter will do the trick. Rent one at your rent all store and presto, the pipe is cut. However, it's still possible to use a Saws All. You won't wear out as many blades as you would on 4". Good luck, Tom PS. Let me know how you made out.

labman · Sep 2, 2004, 07:38 PM

If you use the Sawzall, select a fairly coarse bimetal blade, 12 - 18 tpi. You may also want to try a abrasive cut off blade in a circular saw. Maybe pick up 2 of them. One to cut most of the way through, and a second one to finish it off after the first one is worn down too far to cut the far side. Watch the heat. You may need to give the saw a break.

twcinnh · Sep 2, 2004, 08:00 PM

It will probably be a few weeks before we can get to it, but I do want to thank everyone for their time and advice. It's helped take the mystery away and get a good feel for how to proceed.

Thanks again everyone.

Tom

twcinnh · Sep 12, 2004, 06:13 AM

This is how I made out. My mother-in-law got involved.

After listening to my father-in-law and I discuss the whole operation she began lobbying for a plumber.

She won.

Labman, the plumber then followed your advice. I wasn't there but I'm told he went through 6 or 7 blades with the Sawzall, then used an abrasive blade to score what was left. After scoring that, out came the hammer to break off the hub.

My father-in-law is 83 and after 40 years as an air plane mechanic and 18 years of retirement hadn't seen PVC used before. I think he's quite impressed with it. I'm told it was pretty noisy in the basement during the operation but the whole thing only took 2 or 3 hours.

The advice and comments made in this Forum made him quite comfortable with the whole process. I think without the guidance people here provided both in-laws would have been worrying if their house was going to survive. It did, and they are now very happy to have the work done.

Thank you everyone.