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inaz4sun · Oct 18, 2006, 11:09 AM

When I started to replace a bathroom sink faucet the hotwater shutoff valve broke (cheap plastic) so I can't shut off the hot water under the sink. What should I do? Is there a way to shut off hot water to the house while I replace the faucet then turn back on, or do I have to drain the hotwater tank and all that?

iamgrowler · Oct 18, 2006, 11:26 AM

If the house was plumbed to code, then there should be a shut off valve at the hot water tank.

inaz4sun · Oct 18, 2006, 11:32 AM

At first glance last night, it did not appear to have a shut off valve on the hot water out pipe. I saw a valve on the cold water in (I checked which pipe felt cold and which felt hot to know which was which) but didn't see a similar one on the hot water out pipe. Could it be located elsewhere?

If there isn't a hotwater shutoff, what are my options then? I have read that I might be able to drain the tank (gas) 3/4 empty then turn the thermostat way down, and shut off the cold water intake, then I could probably replace the valve. Is the valve connected just at the end of pipe under the sink (after the link to the faucet, or does the valve include the line to the faucet and all of that needs to be replaced?

iamgrowler · Oct 18, 2006, 11:44 AM

The one on the cold side is the shut-off you are looking for.

The last part of your question is hard to answer without knowing what kind of shut-off and supply you have under the sink.

As for replacing the line from the shut off to the sink, I generally err on the side of caution and replace the supply line.

8 or 9 dollars for a new supply line versus a call-back on my dime is a pretty strong impetus to replace the supply line.

labman · Oct 18, 2006, 11:49 AM

No big deal. Shut the gas or electric off to the hot water tank and then shut the cold water valve off. Maybe while you have it off, install a valve on the outlet. A simple, cheap job if you have CPVC lines. Just cut out a section and cement in a CPCV ball valve. Same deal at the sink. If what broke was just the valve handle, you may be able to replace it. While you are at it, may as well replace the cold water valve with a ball valve too. Angled globe valves do have their place. I am not so quick to replace them.

What you never want to do is to let water heat and expand in the hot water tank with no place for the excess to go. Many places now require an expansion tank on the inlet side.

iamgrowler · Oct 18, 2006, 12:04 PM

Which is why you never want to have a valve on the hot side of the tank.

Having both valves off will allow a situation where the water in the tank heats up and expands, usually resulting in the temperature and pressure relief valve popping off.

You or I may know to flip the breaker off or to turn the gas off, but this isn't something that is going to occur to most homeowners.

inaz4sun · Oct 18, 2006, 12:55 PM

Turning off the gas to the hot water heater would meaning having to relight the pilot light though wouldn't it? The gas company says to allow them to do this. I would like to avoid all that.

In a standard faucet shutoff valve is the handle a sepearate part that can be removed and replaced without replacing the entire valve?

iamgrowler · Oct 18, 2006, 01:06 PM

If all you are doing is a light repair, then you should be able to just turn the temperature knob down to it's lowest setting until you are finished.

If the handle had a screw holding it on to the stem, then you can probably just replace the handle -- That would be preferable to replacing the entire stop (shut-off).

If it is held on with a screw, but is too damaged to use as a reference for buying a new handle, then remove the handle from the cold side and take it with you to the hardware store.

Gently rock the handle up and down if it is difficult to remove, but don't force it.

I don't want to put you in a situation that is twice as bad as the one you're in right now.:D

inaz4sun · Oct 18, 2006, 01:37 PM

Originally Posted by iamgrowler

If all you are doing is a light repair, then you should be able to just turn the temperature knob down to it's lowest setting until you are finished.

If I can just replace the handle portion it can be done in a minute or two.

Originally Posted by iamgrowler

If the handle had a screw holding it on to the stem, then you can probably just replace the handle -- That would be preferable to replacing the entire stop (shut-off).

The tube that holds the handle broke, just cheap plastic, so the part that came off is the handle with the screw. But there is a nut on the end of the inlet tube that will come off and I am thinking I can replace that part--i.e. the nut with handle shaft and handle.

I am afraid if I have to replace the whole valve, where it attaches to the pipe (I gather a copper compression fitting, that will require more than I want to tackle. I could just get the water off and install the new faucet, then worry about having the valve replaced at a later date--its not leaking at present. What would be your guess on an average price for a plumber to come and do it all, i.e. replace the valve and install the faucet?

iamgrowler · Oct 18, 2006, 01:48 PM

You could just replace the stem, handle and packing nut, but you would need to have the exact brand and style of stop to rob parts from.

As for having a plumber come out and replace the stop and finish the installation, that's a bit of a crap shoot.

I bill out at $69.00 an hour, but others bill out at considerably more, while a few bill out at a little less.

I could probably do it in about two hours, and then figure in about $25.00 to $35.00 for incidental parts.

inaz4sun · Oct 19, 2006, 07:31 AM

Originally Posted by iamgrowler

You could just replace the stem, handle and packing nut, but you would need to have the exact brand and style of stop to rob parts from.

As for having a plumber come out and replace the stop and finish the installation, that's a bit of a crap shoot.

I bill out at $69.00 an hour, but others bill out at considerably more, while a few bill out at a little less.

I could probably do it in about two hours, and then figure in about $25.00 to $35.00 for incidental parts.

Thanks for the help. I shut off the cold water in feed, that did it, a little water left in the system was easily cleared, I replaced the faucet and turned the cold water back on. Nothing leaks (so far) :-).

labman · Oct 19, 2006, 08:36 AM

For future reference, turning the cold water inlet off is a bad idea. That prevents excess water from expansion flowing back out. If you shut off the hot water outlet, the effect is the same as having all the hot water taps closed, the normal condition. And yes, I should have been more careful to say turn the gas to pilot rather than ''turn the gas off''.

A good hardware store, like the Ace hardware I patronize, will have a good selection of faucet parts. I have carried in old junk from both my house and church in, and they always have what I need. I think even Lowe's and Home depot have some of that stuff. If the old valve is a gate valve, it may not be worth fixing. They quickly crud up and may not shut the water off when you need it.