[wostertag]

Is it OK to raise the tub about 6"? I'm about 3 feet away from the 2" line in the shower drain stubout, and don't wan't to break up all that concrete. I can get the trap in if I raise the tub 6" (I have plenty of head room). Can I build a 7" high form, fill with concrete to about 6 1/2", set the tub down into the concrete, trap directly under the tailpiece, and run 1 1/2" about 3 feet over and down into the shower drain stubout (horizontal)?

[speedball1]

Is it ok to raise the tub about 6"? I'm about 3 feet away from the 2" line in the shower drain stubout, and don't wan't to break up all that concrete. I can get the trap in if I raise the tub it 6" (I have plenty of head room). Can I build a 7" high form, fill with concrete to about 6 1/2", set the tub down into the concrete, trap directly under the tailpiece, and run 1 1/2" about 3 feet over and down into the shower drain stubout (horizontal)?

Hey Tag,
Let me make life a little easier for you. Since you may not double trap a fixture, (you already have a trap under the cement) you won't have to platform the tub up that high. All you need is a 1 1/2" drainage ell with a 1 1/2" compression fitting attached ( I assume this will be PVC) coming off the tubs tailpiece, the 1 1/2" horizontal run and a 2" ell with a 2 X 1 1/2" bushing in it to connect to the shower stub up. You could even box in the horizontal run and stubup for a more finished look.
Sound like a plan? Cheers, Tom

[wostertag]

That would be great! But, I probably didn't explain myself well. This is a 9"x12" "hole" in the slab with a horizontal 2" pvc pipe capped off with an orange cap about 9" down into the hole. I don't see any trap down there. Local code also says that the trap must be within 18" hoizontally of the centerline of the fixture drain, and I'm over 3 feet away from the " hoizontally of the centerline of the fixture drain, and I'm over 3 feet away from the ".

[speedball1]

That would be great! But, I probably didn't explain myself well. This is a 9"x12" "hole" in the slab with a horizontal 2" pvc pipe capped off with an orange cap about 9" down into the hole. I don't see any trap down there, would it be back under the slab? Local code also says that the trap must be within 18" hoizontally of the centerline of the fixture drain, and I'm over 3 feet away from the "hole".

OK, You have a tub dap out with no trap instead of a shower raiser. Your options have just dropped to zero. I have good news and I have bad news.
The good news is that you don't have to platform the tub, it can set on the floor. The bad news is that you're going to hafta take a cement saw and trench over to the tub drain, cut out another tub dap out hole, couple on to that 2" horizontal pipe and install a trap and raiser. That will put your project back in code and give you a much better drainage set up then the one I originally gave you. Have fun, Tom

[wostertag]

No way I can trap right under a raised tub and send that over to the 2" in the hole? It will all be inside of a tub deck, so it won't be visible at all. It would be easier for me to raise the tub than to remove a wall that's in the way and cut a trench in the slab.

[speedball1]

No way I can trap right under a raised tub and send that over to the 2" in the hole? It will all be inside of a tub deck, so it wont be visible at all. It would be easier for me to raise the tub than to remove a wall thats in the way and cut a trench in the slab.

Then install a trap and raiser and go back to my original suggestion. This trap must be installed in the tub dap out. If you put the trap under the tub tailpiece you will have built a "S" trap which is outlawed. Doing it the other way will build you a running trap which is acceptable.
Good luck, Tom

[wostertag]

Ok - going to bust up the concrete. What type of turns would be best. Tub trap will go about 4 ft. south of the existing west to east 2" horizontal (==c , below (the c is a cap)), and about 6" west (so below, I need to go 4 ft. south, then 6" back to the west.




|----|
|== c | <-- existing dap out
|____|



___
| |
|o | <-- the "o" is where the trap will be.
|__|

I can 45 degree off of the trap, 45 to get perpendicular to the existing line. Is a 90 degree ok to connect back up with the existing 2"? The existing dap out is in a closet, would this be a good place to vent at (I'm going to more than 8ft from the existing vent with the extension).

[speedball1]

Hey Tag,

Sounds good to me. While I don't like 90's in drainage sometimes you can't get away from using them. Using 2 45's is best but if you must use a elbo then use a short or long sweep 90. You might consider a AAV,( Air Admittance Valve) "cheater vent" just behind the trap instead of the hassle of running a vent out the roof. Good luck, Tom