[twojciac]

I apologize in advance for the broken record, but I'm thinking of roughing in a bathroom in my basement myself. I intended on hiring a plumber until I got the first quote :eek:

I have a full bathroom roughed in, with a 12"x12" box with a 2" drain for the shower/tub on the far left. In the middle is a 4" stub for the toilet. On the right is a 2" drain for the sink. In the middle of the room in the ceiling is a 1 1/2" stub for the vent. The main stack is about 7' from where all three drains join together.

Attached is a picture of the connections before the slab was poured. Hopefully this shows the required detail, if not I can take more snapshots of what it looks like today.

Now for the questions (please go easy on me, I'm a complete novice).

Since the vent is in the middle of the room and not above the sink drain, can I put an elbow and extend it horizontally and drop it back down? Would it need to be a sloped elbow and not 90 degree?

Do I just need to vent the sink?

If I have to vent the tub/shower, I assume it would have to be between the p-trap and overflow. Also, would there be a required slope for the vent to be horizontally extended between sink and tub/shower?

I have PVC and CPVC stubs for the water supplies. The shower valve is all metal. Can I use CPVC into the valve, and up to the showerhead? Or should I plan on doing all of that with copper?

I know I need to put pressure gauges in place for the inspection. Would this be at each stub (tub faucet, showerhead, toilet cold, sink hot and cold)?

Thanks in advance!

[speedball1]

[
(1)Since the vent is in the middle of the room and not above the sink drain, can I put an elbow and extend it horizontally and drop it back down? Would it need to be a sloped elbow and not 90 degree?
Do I just need to vent the sink?

Yes, you may extend the vent upfrom the lavatory and tie back to the vent stack in the ceiling. You may use a "vent elbo" which has a very tight radius, just remember to add slope back to the lavarory. Your bathroom group is wet vented by the lavatory ventm, no furthrt vents are required.

(2) If I have to vent the tub/shower, I assume it would have to be between the p-trap and overflow. Also, would there be a required slope for the vent to be horizontally extended between sink and tub/shower?

Answered in #1. The slope for vents is the same for all drainage. 1/8th to 1/4" to the foot sloping back to the fixture.

(3) I have PVC and CPVC stubs for the water supplies. The shower valve is all metal. Can I use CPVC into the valve, and up to the showerhead? Or should I plan on doing all of that with copper?

Yes, you may use CPVC 1/2" male adaptors to connect to the shower valve.
You may also use plastic for the shower raiser to the showerhead if you wish.

(4) I know I need to put pressure gauges in place for the inspection. Would this be at each stub (tub faucet, showerhead, toilet cold, sink hot and cold)?

We test our rough in by blocking off the drain from the toilet and filling the vent stack up to the roof and letting it set overnight, Next day the inspector looks for leaks, passes the job and we can drain the vents. You'll have to check local codes about the gages. Is there a way to just block off the main drain in the basement group so you can fill the stack?
More questions? I'm as close as a click. Regards, Tom

[twojciac]

Thanks so much for your help! I have a few more questions if you are willing.

I have 1/2" PVC for cold and 3/4" CPVC for hot. Should I extend the 3/4" CPVC to the sink and up to the shower and convert to 1/2" as close to the valve as possible? Or is it best to extend the 3/4" into the wall and convert to 1/2" where I branch out for the sink and shower?

When I connect male CPVC fittings into copper, what's best to put on the threads? Teflon tape?

Thanks again!

[speedball1]

I would make both the hot and cold mains 3/4". Code allows 3 fixtures on a 1/2" branch. However, if you feel cautious you could branch off the 3/4" mains with 3/4 X 1/2 X 1/2" tees. Run two 1/2" cold lines off the tee to the lavatory and tub/shower and a single cold line to the toilet. Run a single 1/2" hot line each off the tee to the lavatory and tub/shower. That way you'll be protected if you're in the shower and someone gives the john a flush. OUCH!
Use teflon tape on the threads. Good luck, Tom

[twojciac]

Good old Lowe's only had 3/4x3/4x1/2 T fittings. I only have 3/4" CPVC on one line, I assumed it was hot because it had an orange ribbon on it... but I'm going to cut the line and open the valve into a bucket to find out.

I ran into yet another question... I just realized the tub/shower drain by default is 1 1/2", but my drain in the floor is 2". I purchased a 2" trap and a 2" -> 1 1/2" reducer (all glue fittings, not screw). Is the correct way to expand from 1 1/2" -> 2" after a 1 1/2" trap, or like I purchased, expanding 1 1/2" from the overflow drain kit into a 2" trap?

Also, does anyone know where I can find homeowner specific code for the state of Virginia? I found the general building code, but I can't figure out if I need shock arrestors for the sink and toilet or not... and if it can be an 18" air chamber or if it needs a real one.

Thanks again and again!

[speedball1]

A more flexible connection would be a 2 X 1 1/2" compression fitting off a 2" raiser from the trap, however a glue on reducer is acceptable.

I don't know about local codes in Virginia but Chapter 12, section 1213.8 of the Standard Plumbing Code requires them and it only makes good sense to install them, (shock arresters).
Our codes in the Tampa Bay Area call for air chambers to be at least 12" long of 1/2 copper with a hard cap installed just inside the wall on all lavatory and kitchen sink stub-outs. If the builder wants added protection we make them out of 3/4" copper on a copper water pipe job or CPVC/PVC if plumbed in plastic.
Good luck, Tom

[twojciac]

Thanks for all the help... I'm almost done with the rough-in. I have yet another question though.

Where on earth does one find a pressure gauge for the inspection? I checked TruValue, Lowe's, and Home Depot plumbing sections and didn't see any. Once I find one, how does it attach to 1/2" CPVC? Would I need to glue it on for the test?

Thanks!!

[speedball1]

Thanks for all the help... I'm almost done with the rough-in. I have yet another question though.

Where on earth does one find a pressure gauge for the inspection? I checked TruValue, Lowes, and Home Depot plumbing sections and didn't see any. Once I find one, how does it attach to 1/2" CPVC? Would I need to glue it on for the test?

Thanks!!!

I never found one to purchase for my tool kit either so I had to make my own. Go to a pump service Shop and purchase a 100 PSI gage. It should have a 1/4" threaded male connection. Now get the counter man to locate and sell you fittings to go from 1/4" female thread to 1/2" female adpter. They can be copper sweat fittings, galvanized or even PVC.
You will end up with a pressure gage with a 1/2" female opening.
To test house pressure, remove the shower head from the shower arm coming out of the wall and thread on the gage. From there just turn on the shower and read the gage. Good luck, Tom