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| We are redoing our shower, the contractor walked out on us after three days. Then found out his license had expired in 2007.....wonderful! Bad experience from the get go, should have relied on my gut instincts instead of giving him a second chance on the very first day! So we are finishing it ourselves. Had a plumber come in first and he put a new 2 piece PVC drain so it was ready for the contractor. The contractor mudded the pan, put the vinyl liner (blue) down and placed the first part of the drain over it. So the first stage of the pan was done. I am assuming the contractor did not plug up the weep holes during this process. My husband and I laid the second layer of mud on top of the liner and sloped etc. Now I read about the weep holes and keeping them open. I saw in some videos as well as read about a clear plastic disk was put around the drain before the final layer of mud is put down? We didn't put down that clear plastic disk......is this a must or just something some do? Help! Here is a picture of the floor before we put the second layer of mud on it. Brown water proof paper is taped down to protect the vinyl liner in this photo so you can't see the ring at the bottom of the drain. Please if anyone could advise me here if we messed up, it would be greatly appreciated...... Just found another picture on the web where the guy use spacers around the drain prior to the final layer of mud. We are going to have to rip the floor out around the drain aren't we? |
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| UPDATE: Well all went well yesterday! I made a paper pattern out of the drain copy the plumbing supply store made for me to locate the weep holes around the drain. The white of the weep holes is where I cut out the square and marked the pan for their location. Of course the weep holes were like a 1/4" from the rim of the drain pipe which meant we were going to have to drill at a slight angle in order to hit the weep holes and not damage the PVC pipe. We used a 1/2" bit with tape around it to mark how far down the weep holes were. Slowly drilling and using a vacuum to clean it out as we go so when we saw the white of the drain we could stop. There it WAS! First shot and perfectly centered over the square! Took a screwdriver the same size as the weep hole square (about a 1/4") and just gently pushed the mud through being careful not to damage the liner! It fell into the liner covered drain! The other two holes went just as easily! We then flushed the holes out with water, and yep they were clear! We used Homepride wheat bread, no crust...HeHe....to cover the hole so mud didn't pack back in there. I mixed up the mud 5:1 (one tablespoon of portland to 5 tablespoons of sand). I feel so much better now that the weep hole issue has been resolved! Thank you so much for your help and support getting through this blunder! As for the mastic vs thin-set......kind of funny, I belong to a classic fiberglass boat website and the mastic vs thin-set debate reminds me of the resin vs epoxy debates when working on our 1950's & 60's boats. I opted for resin when I replace the floor in my boat. We have floated walls and 30 of the wall tiles, on the shower head wall at the top, were put on with mastic instead of thin-set. Also as I said before, 3 sheets of the 1x1 floor tile (out of 6 sheets) mastic was used. They appear to be very well secured to the wall and when the grout is applied I am assuming they will hold up well. YES? | ||||
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| Update: Spent the day removing the shower floor tile and the mastic. The mastic was desolving with the water test I did to see if it held, which it didn't. Really glad I tested it instead of finding out later! Thank you for the tips which lead me to research more and avoid disaster! | ||||
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