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Originally Posted by sagan99 Thanks again Tom - you have enlughtened me!
When I cut the square....the drain pipe is between floor joists say 16 inches. How large should I cut the square, assuming the floor of the shower is squishy? What to re-enforce the shower floor with, if all I am doing is "taping the "square" back into it's original place?
Other tips - I have both silicon and plumbers putty...what is best?
One last thing - this drain securing nut...is it likely plastic? or other and is it glued into place or will a slight tug of a pipe wrench do the trick?
Should be the last thing?
With all that you have given me, you should be running the Gulf Coast relief effort!
Danny
Calgary Canada |
Hi Danny,
(1)When I cut the square....the drain pipe is between floor joists say 16 inches. How large should I cut the square, assuming the floor of the shower is squishy? What to re-enforce the shower floor with, if all I am doing is "taping the "square" back into it's original place?
To loosen and reset the drain you'll need at least a 12 X12" square. This will give you enough to get in to work on the drain. Reinforcing the shower floor is another story. The shower base should have been supported at installation. Now it's setting on a floor and sub floor that's between you and the showerbase. However if you can get to it 2 X4's and plywood is what's most commonly used to brace a shower floor.
(2)I have both silicon and plumbers putty...what is best?
I'm a "old school plumber" I've always used putty with no complaints but if the the floor "gives" when you step on it perhaps silicon jel would work best.
(3) this drain securing nut...is it likely plastic? or other and is it glued into place or will a slight tug of a pipe wrench do the trick?
It's a large nut. It's not glued on and a large set of pliers or a pipe wrench should looses it. It the drains plastic then chances are the nut is also. The same for a metal one.
With all that you have given me, you should be running the Gulf Coast relief effort! Thanks! Tom