Not sure if this is a pluming question or tiling question, so sorry if this is the wrong place to ask. I'm still working on my master bathroom project (some of you may remember me from my "moving a toilet" question). Well, everything is roughed in in its new locations and I am starting to rebuild, close up the floor, etc. One of my next big tasks is to build a shower base which will then be tiled. My plan is to first put in a sloped mortar bed (slopes towards the drain 1.4 inch drop per foot travel) which will terminate flush with the top of the lower half of a two part drain system. Then, I cover the mortar bed with a rubber shower liner and screw on the second part of the drain which will pinch the liner, keeping it in place, and has weep holes to allow any water that makes it to the liner to flow through. The, mortar on top of that, and finally tile. My question is, is there any expert advice or a web site someone can point me to that gives great step by step instructions? Any pitfalls/common mistakes that I should be aware of?

Thanks!
Rob

speedball1

Hi rob, Welcome back.

"My plan is to first put in a sloped mortar bed (slopes towards the drain 1.4 inch drop per foot travel) which will terminate flush with the top of the lower half of a two part drain system. Then, I cover the mortar bed with a rubber shower liner and screw on the second part of the drain which will pinch the liner, keeping it in place, and has weep holes to allow any water that makes it to the liner to flow through."

NO!!! That sequence is wrong. The shower is first boxed in and the threshold built and then the flange type shower drain (see image) goes down followed by by a compaseal membrane that is installed without seams 8" up the shower walls. Then the upper flange and drain gets installed. After that you start to mud. Rob, panning out a tile shower is trickey business. If it's not done right then the entire tile floor must be redone. If you can do the tile work great but I strongly suggest you get experienced help in to pan out the shower. good luck, Tom

dmrlook

Hey Tom - as always, thanks for the reply! I know the shower stall is boxed in first. That work is already done. I used green-treated 2X4s stacked on top of each other to create the threshold, and have the walls (this shower will be in a corner, sort of like a neo-angle setup, except not normal size which is why the base must be done from scratch) with concrete backer board on them. The sub floor is currently 2/4 plywood with the 2 inch stub up shower drain. The drain you showed me a pic of looks exactly like the one I purchased.

So you are saying the membrane goes directly on the subfloor, is that correct? Doesn't there need to be some sort of a slope to it so that water that gets through the grout and tile will be able to flow into the weep holes and then into the drain? I figured I'd put tar paper/rosin paper on the sub floor, then create the mortar bed with slope to it flush with the bottom part of the drain you showed me. Then the membrane 8 inches to a foot up (and only stapled about 8 inches up the wall, no staples or other holes on the floor except for the drain obviously). And then, more mortar on the rubber, and finally, the tile.

I am an experienced tiler (done 2 kitchens, 3 bathrooms (walls, floors), and a hallway) so tiling does not scare me, but I am worried about getting the shower basin right as I imagine if the pitch is not correct, it will not drain, and water will pool. Is this your concern as well, or is there a danger of it leaking as well?

Thanks for your help!
Rob

speedball1

Hi Rob,
The shower is first boxed in and the threshold built and then the flange type shower drain (see image) goes down followed by by a compaseal membrane that is installed without seams 8" up the shower walls. The compaseal is placed on the floor or subfloor FIRST. Then the upper flange and drain gets installed. After that you start to mud. Regards, Tom

Orlando Salazar

You are right Rob. After you've built your box, apply the tar paper and pour your mud pitched towards the drain making sure you do not cover the weep holes at the base of the drain, you can use large pebbles or tile spacers to block the mud from plugging the holes, after is set install the liner and drain set up. As a new alternative you can now use Tile Guard as a waterproofing membrane, a product you apply with a roller, after curing you can tile and finish the job.

Orlando Salazar

afaroo

Hello Orlando,

This is old it was posted in Feb- 2006, Thanks.

Regards,
John

dmrlook

Better late than never though :-)

I've been using the shower for over 3 years - no leaks. All is well.

Thanks all!
Rob

speedball1

Damm!! But I love it when a plan comes together. Glad ya got all fixed up Rob, Thanks for the update.
Orlando, Stick around! we can sure use a experienced tile man. Sorry but I had to remove your advertising. While your site was interesting and I'm for family business it's against AMHD policy to promote your company. But you're certainly welcome to post on The Plumbing Page. Regards and welcome to AskMeHelpDesk. Tom