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Home > Home & Garden > Plumbing   »   Rouging in a stubbed basement plumbing.

 
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Old May 17, 2008, 01:58 PM
SamGupta
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Rouging in a stubbed basement plumbing.

Hi,
I am planning to finish my roughed in basement bathroom and I am trying to understand the plumbing. The house was constructed 5 years ago and is in Atlanta, Georgia. I need some help. Here is setup I have(picture attached.) The ejector pump basin (#6) is filled with water above the level where waste comes in. This had a cap which was bolted and sealed and I am assuming that is the reason why the water is still standing. It seems to be made out of some sort of poly material. Pipe #1 is in the wall and I guess this is for the sink and is filled with water. Toilet (#2) is also filled with water. I am assuming #3 is for the bathtub but is very near to the wall (less than a foot) and is also filled with water. There are 2 pipes(#4 and #5) sticking out of the ceiling. One is 2"and the other is a bit smaller. I checked by tapping these pipes in the attic while someone was listening to the sound in the pipes below and they are indeed venting through the attic. I see no other pipes coming out of the concrete slab specifically for venting. Do I have to use pipe #1(sink) as a wet vent? How should the plumbing for this look like. A plumber I called insists that he will have to drill the floor and rerun the vent to the roof and gave a big estimate. Any help is greatly appreciated.

thanks
Sam.

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Old May 19, 2008, 12:39 PM   #11  
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Sam....way more work and money to build that platform than to just dig up a little concrete and attach a couple 45s to a desanco fitting (adapts the pvc to the tub waste drain assembly).

Is there access behind the tub waste..or is that the concrete foundation wall in your drawing...? You need access if planning to install on floor...and still need access through the side to get to the tub waste drain assembly even if building a platform....so hopefully drain is not on the foundation wall.

Like Tom said, on upper floors we have the joist bay itself to work on the tub drain and no sheetrock/plaster in place so easy to work on the tub waste drain assembly.

I guess if you can make tub waste drain accessible...up to you how you do it...but I'm telling you it is less work to just chop open the floor abit and you won't have to step up to the tub!!

If no access then you may need to go to a tub with a removable apron (pre made or can build tile apron) or access panel (as in 5' whirlpool... )

Let us know what you think...answer my questions if I made sense!! Mark

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Old May 19, 2008, 01:11 PM   #12  
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Mark,
On the waste side of the bathtub there is a framed wall holding up the stairs(under the stairs). I am planning to provide access to that area from the other side. On the side of the tub is a concrete foundation wall. I was just worried about bursting the pipes but I guess it should not be difficult to chip the concrete. So I will have to drill around the pipe then? 1 foot in front and some behind? Also one more question. Can I add another sink(which is outside the bathroom) to drain out through the bathroom sink's pipe? Will the venting be sufficient?

thanks
Sam.
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Old May 19, 2008, 02:55 PM   #13  
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Hey Sam:

What are you planning to drain down the additional sink...? Is it to be used as a laundry tub or discharge for washing machine...or is it just a utility sink..? If discharge for washer then in terms of wet vent and codes this isn't allowed...but if only a utility sink then as unconventional as this is, you should be OK to add sink on to lav. drain as long as do not exceeed 10 inches between fitting for lav. waste and fitting for utility sink waste.

In terms of the tub waste...need to break the concrete up around the pipe first (about 1 foot square, max....tight to where the shower valve wall will be framed in), then gently break the concrete from around the pipe using a hammer and chisel. Should not break pipe if you start a hole and then collapse concrete away from the pipe to start and then work toward the pipe..then finally use hammer and chisel to break concrete from around pipe.

A typical tub WITH THE TUB WASTE AND OVERFLOW ASSEMBLY INSTALLED (see pic. below) has the center of the drain pipe at 1.5" off rough shower valve wall and 14.5" off the rough back wall to center of pipe. This measure will depend on your tub, of course, but that should give you a good idea of where you are headed.

Let me know what you think...MARK

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SamGupta agrees: Excellent help provided by this user in this as well as prior posts.
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Old May 19, 2008, 03:21 PM   #14  
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Mark,
Once again thanks for the excellent advice. I still have one follow up question. The sink I was mentioning about is a utility sink for a wet bar. However there is no stub for this sink. So I was thinking of draining it into the bathroom sink. The sink however is about 20 feet away. I could make it about 8 feet away and is around a bend. I could not understand the 10 in. restriction you mentioned. Could you please explain further?

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Old May 19, 2008, 03:59 PM   #15  
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Hey Sam:

Thanks for positive words...

Hey...you said sink was for a wet bar....even if between 8 and 20 feet, still not within code to hook this up without an additional vent being connected to wet bar drain (or an AAV (air admittance valve...see pics.)...may or may not be legal in your area). Of course, need a trap for sink, too.

The 10 inch thing ....(God!! People are gonna love that... )

I just wanted to have you set the new wet bar drain so it did not enter back to back with the bathroom sink drain.... Just install separate fittings for each drain is all!!

Get back with thoughts...MARK

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File Type: jpg AAV Set up.jpg (2.9 KB, 20 views)
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Old May 19, 2008, 07:53 PM   #16  
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Mark,
Thanks once again for your advice. Assuming that the local codes allow an air admittance valve will the setup in the picture here work? Can the wet bar drain go below the bathroom sink drain.

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Old May 20, 2008, 01:45 AM   #17  
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That is how I would do it Sam. Looks good. Keep in touch.
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