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    jkp04d's Avatar
    jkp04d Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Feb 19, 2008, 05:15 PM
    Replacing bathtub faucet
    Hello,

    I need to replace a bathtub faucet that is leaking and not well seated against the tub wall. Does anyone know what tools are needed and the steps for doing so?

    Thank you!

    Kate
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #2

    Feb 19, 2008, 07:45 PM
    Describe faucet. Single handle, two knobs, three knobs. Relative modern or old as the hills?
    jkp04d's Avatar
    jkp04d Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Feb 24, 2008, 11:54 AM
    Relatively modern, two knobs, access panel through bedroom closet. (Thank you)
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #4

    Feb 24, 2008, 12:26 PM
    Do you wish to repair or replace? If replace do you wish same type or convert to single handle. What kind of walls in bath, tiled or, fiber glass. Do you have bracing between the studs to anchor faucet?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #5

    Feb 24, 2008, 01:20 PM
    You don't have tom replace the 0old two handled valve with another just like it. Moen makes a chrome remodel plate, (see image) that will allow you to replace a two knob faucet with a shiny new one handled one. Your choice!
    Regards, Tom
    jkp04d's Avatar
    jkp04d Posts: 3, Reputation: 1
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    #6

    Feb 25, 2008, 12:40 PM
    Replace, fiberglass, and stay with the current type. I need to double check, but yes, I believe there are studs to anchor the faucet. (Thank you both)
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
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    #7

    Feb 25, 2008, 02:32 PM
    Get valve you are going to use and cover plate Tom showed you. Turn off the water, cut pipes at a convenient place. Remove old faucet, you may want to remove bracing if old is not very secure. Make hole for new valve, should come with a rough in template. Cut new bracing to fit snug between studs. Put valve in hole and bracing in between studs. Screw valve to bracing. Measure distance between valve and pipes. Remove valve and bracing. Remove valve from bracing. Solder threaded adapters to short pieces of pipe. Screw threaded adapters and pipe in place using Teflon tape or pipe thread compound. Cut off pipes to appropriate lengths to align with pipes in the wall. Put on 90 ell and add enough pipe to meet old pipe. Put valve in hole and make sure everything lines up and connects to old pipes. Remove all fittings and flux. Prop valve in place. Solder all fittings. Heat the fitting, not the pipe. Pipe is hot enough when flux begins to bubble or flow. When soldering vertical connections, that is a coupling on a vertical pipe, solder bottom first, then go to top of coupling, point torch to pipe about 1" above the joint to reheat. Don't over heat and don't use excessive solder. You don't want all the solder in the lower half of joint to melt out.

    Put bracing in place and reattach valve. Make valve flush with finished wall. Attach bracing to studs with screws.

    Remove valve stems or cartridge. Flush valve. Install trim.

    If you will be using a propane or Mapp gas torch, get a small nozzle. You don't need a big flame for 1/2" copper. The hottest place of the flame is the blue tip... If you are close to wooden members make a heat shield out of about 3 or 4 folds of aluminum foil.

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