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Replaced electric water heater Atlanta area, but no hot water

Asked Apr 23, 2008, 06:10 AM — 14 Answers
The old water heater died. Bot one (38 gals) at HD. Installed exactly like the old one was as follows--3 CPVC pipes come out of wall. Two are joined. Before they are joined one has a valve. After they are joined there is a second valve. The pipe is connected to the cold side of the heater using a copper connection. From the hot side of the heater connected to the third pipe using same type of copper connection.

Next connected the electricity. From a box in the wall with a disconnect switch comes an electric cable with a black, a white and a green wire. Connected the green to the heater ground. Then connected the black wire to the black wire coming from the heater and connected the white wire to the red wire coming from the heater. Opened the thermostat cover and raised the temperature from about 120 degres to about 140 degrees. Let the heater fill with all hot water faucets open around the apartment. Believe I am done with the installation. Water flowed very well. Powered the system. Let it sit overnight. This morning NO HOT WATER. Also noticed that on the other side of the wall where the 3 pipes come out there is a sink. The hot water faucet has very little water coming out. As far as I know, this is the same way the old heater heater was installed but have no hot water. What am I doing wrong?

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14 Answers
Stratmando's Avatar
Stratmando Posts: 10,424, Reputation: 2515
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#2

Apr 23, 2008, 06:34 AM
I would check for power to water heater, and be sure that if you had 120 volt water heater before, and you accidently bought a 240 volt water heater, you will have a heating issue.
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speedball1's Avatar
speedball1 Posts: 27,670, Reputation: 9541
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#3

Apr 23, 2008, 06:45 AM


I don't think you've done anything wrong. I think you disturbed minerals built up on the pipe walls and nor it's clogging your system. I would start checking at the hot water side of the sink next to the heater.
To tell you more I need to know what type of faucet's on the sink. One handle or two knobs. . Let me know about the faucet and we will track the clog back to the source. In the meantime let me tell you how to keep your new heater clear of mineral bnuild-up
For long life and fewer troubles you should keep your heater clear of mineral build-up by FLUSHING NOT DRAINING on a regular schedule. Attach a hose to the boiler drain at the bottom of the tank. With the pressure on, open the boiler drain and let it run until the water runs clear. You will see a spurt of red,(rust) followed by white or yellow grains,(lime or calcium carbonate). This shouldn't take more then a few minutes. Do this monthly to keep it clear. Now flush out your hot water lines on ALL fixtures that are affected . Now pull each aerator and clean the screens. Be sure you put them back togather the same way you took them out. Don't forget to flush it out every month. Your heater will thank you for it. Hope this helps, Tom
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fcharger's Avatar
fcharger Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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#4

Apr 23, 2008, 07:29 AM
The sink faucet is really two faucets, the left being the hot and the right being the cold. Cold water runs well but not the hot side. You say I did nothing wrong. How come there is no hot water. This is a new Heater. I can understand the sediment clogging the hot water faucet but the heater not heating the water?
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Stratmando's Avatar
Stratmando Posts: 10,424, Reputation: 2515
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#5

Apr 23, 2008, 07:39 AM
So your saying you have correct voltage to Water Heater.
Also, You have water out of hot faucet, but it is Cold? Or no water at all.
And you opened all valves?
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speedball1's Avatar
speedball1 Posts: 27,670, Reputation: 9541
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#6

Apr 23, 2008, 07:47 AM


Quote:
I can understand the sediment clogging the hot water faucet but the heater not heating the water?
Sorry, I got the impression from
Quote:
The hot water faucet has very little water coming out.
It sounded like you had very little hot water coming out of the faucet. But that the heater was producing.
OK! Now you have two problems. Let's take the power loss first. Most heaters are 220 volts but Strat asked a valid question. You don't have 220 votls going to a 110 heater do you?
Let's start with the breaker box. Any breakers thrown? Next, remove the top inspection plate and check the red button on the thermostat. If it's out reset it. If your heater heated at all this should bring power back to the elements. When you installed the heater you did fill the heater before you turned the power on didn't you? Let's hear back from you Regards, Tom
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fcharger's Avatar
fcharger Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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#7

Apr 23, 2008, 08:22 AM
The heater is 220 volts because that was what was there before. The water was never hot nor warm. The red button is not out. The breaker has not been tripped. Water flows well from all other hot water faucets except the one on the sink which is on the other side of the wall where the hot water heater is.
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Stratmando's Avatar
Stratmando Posts: 10,424, Reputation: 2515
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#8

Apr 23, 2008, 01:12 PM
Power to Water Heater supply and to Element NEED to be tested. Can you comfortably make voltage test?
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fcharger's Avatar
fcharger Posts: 9, Reputation: 1
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#9

Apr 23, 2008, 01:22 PM
Can try. Have a volt/ohm meter. What should I do?
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Stratmando's Avatar
Stratmando Posts: 10,424, Reputation: 2515
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#10

Apr 23, 2008, 02:48 PM
It does need to be set to volts, And Above 240 Volts AC(probably 250 volt range).
Measure where the 2 wires from the Disconnect(This is On we hope) Voltage will go From Electrical Panel to Disconnect, then the Water Heater. You should have line voltage(120 or 240).
If you have voltage to top of water heater and not at Element, then it would be thermostat, red button or.
Also If you had a volt meter on element showing voltage and no current with an Amprobe, Element is Open. I don't think this is the case.
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