My water conditioning system currently backwashes into a utility sink. I wish to remove the utility sink and hook up both a new washing machine and the water conditioning system to the existing drain (not enough room to keep the utility sink). How can I do this?

Connecting the washer and the softener together should present no problem. Simply wye off from the washer standpipe and install a check valve to pick it up.
However you may run into problem with the height of the sanitary tee in the wall. It sets anywhere from 14 to 18 inches off the floor. Since a washer stand pipe should be at least 36" long that puts the stand pipe up a tad higher then normal. Place the wye at the top of the stand pipe Will this work for you or is the backwash drained by gravity and we have a slope problem. Let me know and we'll work something out. Good luck, Tom

Your new washing machine will require a larger drain than older models. New models release under pressure and can overload traditional 2 inch drain lines. Size up your drain line to the next size greater than the washer manufacturer recommendations and "tee' in the water conditioning drain with a backflow prevention device in between (above) the tee

Somehow I have a problem with purchasing a new washer only to spend thousands increasing the branch to a larger size
A much better, and cheaper , solution would be to make it a closed system by a solid connection, (see image) between the washer hose and the stand pipe. And your thoughts? Regards, Tom

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Hi all...

Every time I see someone post that 2" is a requirement for the "newer washing machines"...never mind that elephantears has suggested that these newer machines can overload "traditional 2" drain lines" I feel obligated to let future readers of this thread know that in our state we are only required to run 1.5" drains for washing machines and they work just fine with the newer washing machines!

In fact, what we find with the newer machines is that they do expel water at an increased velocity and people are having trouble but the trouble is moreso related to the fact that the drains are clogged or slightly clogged may be a better way to put it and this leads people to believe that the drain lines need to be increased in size because, "the old washer didn't have this issue". When I hear that, we usually snake the drain line and the issue has almost always been resolved.

When the snake didn't fix the issue we cut the pipe out real close up to the cast iron drain fittings and found deposits so hard that the snake just bounced off the buildup instead of clearing the mess. Here, we chiseled out the hard stuff and reconnected....ALWAYS FIXES THE ISSUE!

Finally, that all being said, I run all my washing machine drains in 2" as it just seems to make sense, but again I don't want people walking away from this thread spreading the idea that 1.5" or 2" drain pipes are not correct!

Just FYI all... :)

Mark