I had a drilled well installed at the cottage about 3 years ago. They also installed a submersible pump and a new control switch at the pressure tank. At least a couple of times a year, there is no water coming out of the taps. When I go to look at the pressure tank, I notice that there is no PSI. I've been told to hold the "arm" on the control switch to get it going again but I'd like to get it fixed so that this doesn't keep happening. As well the pressure tank seems to empty so quickly at this time, I'm wondering if there might not be any water in this tank.

Any help you can offer would sure be appreciated.

Karen

Lets check the expansion tank to see if that is correct and balanced with the pressure switch you flip. To check the tank and to see if its low in air pressure or flooded flip the switch look at the pressure gage on the well line and if that jumps back and forth and doesn't come up evenly the tank should be the culprit. The pressure tank needs to be charged with air and it should be 2lbs less than the low cutoff of the gage at the well line where the Arm you switch /flip is. To check the tank on the high side it should be 2lbs less at the tank when the pump switch cuts off. Also check the tank for the bladder in that's the type you have. Bang the tank starting at the bottom of the tank to the top. It should sound hollow half way up and when the reg pressure is on the well line. If not it needs either more air to the 2lb rule or the bladder is shot. If the pump is losing prime and the pressure switch should be kicking in or quick starting and stopping also check your foot check valve in the well line by pumping up the water to where the switch shuts off the pump. See if that pressure holds. If it doesn't the check valve/foot valve is not keeping the pump line to the house primed.
Ive posted a site that will help guide you in this area.

Water Pressure Problems: How to Diagnose and Fix Bad or Low Water Pressure, Poor Water Pressure Repair Guide

How to adjust water pump pressure, pump cut-on pressure and pump cut-off pressure - private pump and well system do-it-yourself repairs

Signed 21 Boat

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WK, you likely have a switch that has a safety feature. If the pressure drops more than ten pounds below the cut in pressure, then the switch "assumes" the pump is running dry and cuts it off. So, if your pump is supposed to cut on at 30# (for example), and the pressure continues to drop until it reaches 20#, then the switch just cuts off and stays off until you reset with the little lever on the side. When you reset the switch with the little lever, does the pump cut on and run normally, the system building pressure to the cut off point?

You can tell if the switch has "tripped" by simply pulling the cover off and looking at the points. If they are open, then the safety feature has worked. If they are closed (touching each other), then you have a different problem.

You have a submerged pump so losing prime is not possible. You also will not have a foot valve, but you will have a check valve. It won't hurt to check your tank as described above but at only three years old it should not be having a problem.

It sounds to me like either your switch is defective or you are using more water than your well can supply and are running the well dry from time to time. With the well only three years old, I'd call the person who drilled it and ask them to come out and diagnose your problem. After only three years, you should still have a good well.

I have had the guys in that drilled the well and they have confirmed that there is plenty of water. I have had the switch replaced as well. You are right that the switch has a safety feature and that is why it cuts off (based on a visit from the plumbing guy). Yes, when I reset the switch, the system runs properly. I have taken the cover off and the points are open. I tried to reset it this last time and it didn't work. Perhaps I'm not doing it correctly?

The drilled well is new but the line to the cottage and the pressure tank have not been upgraded and are likely close to 25 years old. I also don't know if I have a check valve.

Any idea why this switch continues to get tripped?

Thanks,
Karen

Not that it's important, but you do have a checkvalve. It is simply a one-way valve that only allows water to come up the wellpipe from the pump TO the tank. It will not allow the water to reverse its flow and run from the tank back into the well. Obviously, if that happened, you would never have water in pressure tank as it would always just flow back into the well.

Now, back to your problem. I would not think the old water lines are contributing to this problem. I would look at a couple of issues. First, there is a little pipe that leads to the switch. Those pipes are notorious for becoming clogged with "crud". If that happens, the switch will be slow in responding. Check the little pipe.

If the little pipe is OK, then I am interested in your statement that the switch has been replaced. Are you saying that this is the second switch and it's still a problem??

One other item. You might want to try a crude test to check your well capacity. Open an outdoor faucet and just let it run. If it can keep it coming for three or four hours uninterrupted, then you can have some confidence in your well's ability to supply water. However, if the safety feature starts kicking in at some point, and the pump does not seem able to pump up to pressure, then you start to question things.

Also, you can buy switches that do not have that safety feature. Of course, there is a risk of causing pump problems if the well runs dry. But you stated your well guy said the well had plenty of water. I'm also kind of wondering why you wouldn't just call him and tell him that his three year old job is not working properly and you need some answers.

I didn't contact the well driller again as he was there for over 3 hours after the first problem. He ran the water directly from the well and no problem with the pump or the amount of water. We then changed the switch (to my second new switch) and all was well except that I continued to have problems. I'm reluctant to change the switch to one that does not have the safety feature as that could be an expensive mistake.

I will try the little pipe as I doubt that it's ever been cleaned. Hopefully that is the problem.

Many thanks for your help.
Karen

WK, don't hesitate to call the guy back and ask him to stand behind his work. All of this stuff is new and he should be prepared to provide you with some answers. I would think he would have changed the little pipe if it was a problem, but who knows??

BTW, PLEASE do all of us here a little favor and let us know how the problem gets resolved.

Why does my pressure tank run all the time?

Do you mean your pump runs all the time?

Yes

1. What does your pressure gauge read?
2. Is your pump above ground or in the well?

There are several possible problems:

1. Bad switch.
2. Weak pump which cannot get up to cut off pressure.
3. A significant leak somewhere.
4. A lowered water table which lessens the pressure your pump can deliver.

Answer the two questions above and we'll try to track this down.