I have a new home with a pressure regulator. When set at 50 psi the flow at all locations is very weak. When set higher the flow is acceptable. The plumber says it must be set at 50psi. The flow at this setting is much weaker than normal (normal being virtually any other location, our last home, public restrooms, other homes, etc., etc.) At what pressure can I safely set the system?

labman

There is nothing to posting a link here. Just type or copy and paste it in. For instance, http://www.askmehelpdesk.com/plumbing/ takes you to the plumbing forum.

Yes different people use different terms for things. When I was managing a factory, I wasted a lot of time translating what the maintenance people asked for to something purchasing could order. Later I was able to bypass purchasing on little stuff. When the electrician asked for a 2'' Greenfield, I was able to call the supply house counter, and they knew what it was, $20.

I agree the surge fixture would take up expansion, but question how much. I haven't done any calculation, but I would be afraid they would be too small.

According to the AMHD code, you are free to post whatever you want. Everybody else is free to post factual disagreements. Sometimes the AWJ here has to suspend people's license.

iamgrowler

I'm not a coffee drinker, Ken.


How do you figure that, Ken?


And that somehow makes you immune to the occasional mistaken diagnosis?

Counting my four year apprenticeship, I've been Plumbing for for 26 years, yet I still from time to time make some mistakes and errors of my own -- I'm not too proud of that fact, but it happens.


This isn't an issue of terminology, it's an issue of diagnosis.


And yours was about on par with 'dealie, thingie, thingamabob and thingamajig'.

But really, that's beside the point.


I know what "water hammer" is -- I also know that "water hammer" is a symptom or condition and that the solution to this symptom or condition is called a 'shock arrester'.


No, it most certainly will not.

"Water hammer" and "thermal expansion" are two very different problems created by two very different situations.

"Water Hammer" is caused by the very abrupt closure of the flow of water in a water piping system -- Usually the sudden closure of a single handled valve or the snapping shut of the solenoid of a solenoid actuated fixture or appliance (ice makers, clothes washers and dishwashers being the big three but humidifiers, CO2 pumps and heat pumps are also guilty culprits.)

"Thermal Expansion" is the result of the expansion of heated or super heated (immediate) water in a water piping system.

Just as the two are very different in how they occur, so is the difference in the 'cure'.

I wish you had access to the same 'teaching aids' I do -- In our classroom is a 1" shock arrestor and a 3 gallon expansion tank, both cut down the middle to show how each one operates.

Look me up if you're ever in the area and I'll give you a tour of the teaching aids at my disposal -- When was the first time, let alone the last time, you got to see a 4'x4' functioning bathroom group done completely to scale in lucite?

ballengerb1

Ken297, could you explain how a water hammer arrestor with about 2 cubic inches of air can absorb thermal expansion?

Looking for help

This is the first time I have used this Web Site. Thanks to everyone who has provided information....I'm trying to absorb all of it. I replaced the pressure relief valve last night and it is not leaking anymore. The system pressure, measured at the water heater, is still averaging 50psi, with a high of about 60/62 and a low of 40psi (when water is being used). The water heater is a new, high efficiency Bradford White 48 gal, with a power vent system. There is an expansion tank, it does have dielectric fittings, I, guessing there is a backflow preventer built in, but I have nt confirmed that. I do not think that there is a restriction in the system, other than the line losses of a complicated plumbing system consisting of 1/2" plastic. (Plastic lines with crimped fittings/joints). My plan at this point is to buy a pressure guage, attach it to an outside faucet and check the pressure, and then adjust it to around 70psi. One thing for sure, the overall system in the house has been pressure tested, having run in excess of 100psi for 9 months or so. Thanks again for you help. If anyone thinks that I am on the wrong path please provide your suggestions. I will be out of town for the next 2 weeks, so my lack of response is not disinterest.