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free_go · Jun 2, 2006, 08:24 PM

Upon remodelling an old bathroom (second story, no fixtures above), I found nearly all the pipes to the fixtures nearly rotted through (brass drains?), with no significant venting. I have a left hand tub (5') and hope to position it against the north wall (70"), with a 10" rough in toilet and sink along side on the west wall (90", see jpeg).

The main soil stack (4" cast iron) is positioned on the north, juts out from the studs about 1.5", and is 5" away from the west wall (see circle on jpeg). The main soil stack also has a 4" cast iron T that points to where I would like to put the tub drain.

Is there anyway to fit the rough waste vents to the toilet and tub without cutting out the 4" cast iron T?

If I cut out the 4" cast iron T and put in a new T that points slightly toward the west wall, will this then leave enough room for the bathtub waste vents?

I hope this is enough information.

T.

speedball1 · Jun 3, 2006, 12:39 PM

Before I can help I need more details. I don't know if you just want to reposistion the tub and the rest of the fixtures are already in place and connected or if you're remodeling the entire bathroom group. Will you be working from underneath or are you tearing uo the floor? What materials are you planing on using? BSZeay with cast iron? Convert to PVC? If there's no vents then you will need to vent the lavatory as well as the tub. This can all be revented back into one vent and go out the roof. It would help me a lot if you've opened up the floor if you could draw in the drainage. Regards, Tom

free_go · Jun 3, 2006, 01:00 PM

Hi Tom,

The entire group is being remodelled.

The floor is torn up, but I will access from below if I have to. As of now there is no drainage, since the bath and sink were previously on the east wall, with the toilet in the NW corner. The supporting floor joists run N-S, and the first joist is 13" from the W wall. The first joist has also been cut and supported with a short cross beam 20" from the north wall to make room for where the toilet used to be.

I plan on converting to PVC, including the main stack if needed.

Thanks for your help.
Tim

speedball1 · Jun 4, 2006, 11:17 AM

You're asking me to lay out drainage on a set of plans that are not drawn to scale. The nearest you come is 1/2" to the foot and that's only on one wall.
To see if yoy have room to install the fittings I have to know have the room, the fixtures, ( The tub and toilet are out of scale and I don't know the vanity cabinet measurement) You don't have to kinow the size of the fittings but I have to have a set of workable plans in order to be accurate. Let me have a plan I can work with and I'll lay your remodel out to code. Regards, Tom

free_go · Jun 4, 2006, 10:40 PM

Hi Tom,
I am providing a more exact map of where I would put the toilet (10in. Rough), tub (5ft. X 30 in.), and sink base (30 in.). The yellow bars show the floor joists. They are 16 in apart, and the first joist lies only 13" from the west wall studs. The first joist has also been cut 22 in. from the north wall to make room for where the toilet was previously. The bathtub is shown against the east wall but may be moved E-W to make room for drain pipes. The soil stack is 4inch cast iron and protrudes about an inch out from the wall, but replacing with PVC will obviously reduce this a bit.

I hope this clears up the problem a bit.

Thanks again,
Tim

speedball1 · Jun 7, 2006, 05:27 AM

Hi Tim,

If it would be possible to lower the 3" toilet discharge line enough to sneak the 2" line from the tub over it?
. I can't see any other solution to venting the tub but to wet vent it through the lavatory vent but I'll need to cross over the 3" line to do it. Your thoughts? Tom

free_go · Jun 10, 2006, 12:02 PM

Thanks for the input Tom.

Hopw about this? The drawing is not to scale, but I think it fits.

Tim

speedball1 · Jun 10, 2006, 12:41 PM

That's not going to get it Tim. You're discharging a major fixture past a unvented minor one and you can't do that. Also the tub should have a 2" drain line and trap not 1 1/2". Back to my original question. Would be possible to lower the 3" toilet discharge line enough to sneak the 2" line from the tub over it to tie into the lavatory drain and be wet vented? Something like this, (see attachment) Regards, tom

free_go · Jun 10, 2006, 06:22 PM

So (if possible) I fit the 2" pvc over the 3" toilet drain, then tie it into the lavratory drain (wet vent) using a Wye connection. Where and how does the 2" lavratory drain tie into the soil stack, just above the 3" drain from the toilet? Is there a special PVC fitting for this or just a 4x4x2?

In the rough design I drew before, wasn't the toilet wet vented by the 2" PVC that connects to the lavratory drain?

Thanks for your input.

Tim

speedball1 · Jun 11, 2006, 05:21 AM

Good morning Tim,

"Where and how does the 2" lavratory drain tie into the soil stack, just above the 3" drain from the toilet? Is there a special PVC fitting for this or just a 4x4x2?"

You will cut in a 4X3" sanitary tee in the 4" soil stack and come off that with a 3X2" wye. The 3" will pick up the toilet and you will bring the 2" up to pick up the lavatory drain with street 45's. Does this work for you?

"In the rough design I drew before, wasn't the toilet wet vented by the 2" PVC that connects to the lavratory drain?"

Yes it was but the toilet was already vented by the soil stack while the tub was overlooked. If you can accommodate the two inch passing over the 3" toilet drain you have a workable plan.
good luck Tom

free_go · Jul 9, 2006, 10:24 PM

Hi Tom,

I'm almost ready to start :)

"You will cut in a 4X3" sanitary tee in the 4" soil stack and come off that with a 3X2" wye. The 3" will pick up the toilet and you will bring the 2" up to pick up the lavatory drain with street 45's. Does this work for you?"

1) Can I get a 3x3x2" wye with a male 3" end to attach to the main stack? Is there such a part?

2) After I come up with street 45's, what do I use to tie in the tub? A 2x2x2wye?

Thanks,
Tim

speedball1 · Jul 10, 2006, 06:10 AM

Hi Tim,

1) Can I get a 3x3x2" wye with a male 3" end to attach to the main stack? Is there such a part?
I would cut in a 4X3 Cast Iron No-Hub sanitary tee,( NO-Hub fittings all have male ends) into the 4" stack and convert to PVC off the 3" branch with a 3X3x2" street wye rolled up over the three inch to run to the lavatory with a 2" elbo. If a street fitting can't be found then just glue a short piece of 3" PVC in the hub and connect the cast iron branch to the PVC piece with a NO-Hub Band. I would pick up the tub with a 2" combination wye and eighth bend and continue on to sweep up to pick up the lavatory.
2) After I come up with street 45's, what do I use to tie in the tub? A 2x2x2wye? No, I think a 2" combo would work better.
Don't forget to prime the PVC fittings before gluing. Good luck. Tom

Raphy · Mar 2, 2011, 07:32 PM

Yes, you can also use a reducer
Tim,anyway just ask the senior plumber...

massplumber2008 · Mar 2, 2011, 08:12 PM

Hi Raphy...

Be sure to check the date of any thread you reply to, OK? This thread is from back in 2006, so I'm going to bet that Tim (free_go) is all set by now! At least, I hope so... :)

Thanks...

Mark