Pipe noise following toilet flush

Hmmmm...does not sound like air in the lines to me MKCT...is this a new sound that recently developed? Have you had any work done on the plumbing recently...? When I hear of noises after the toilet is flushed I immediately figure water hammer or loose pipes somewhere. I mean, if someone worked on a pipe in basement...loosened a hanger or piped something that hits another pipe...can cause all kinds of racket.

If this is a new sound, evaluate the area the work was done in.....shake the pipes around, etc., to see what you find. Further, your toilet fill valve may be defective...easy to change out and is probably the first thing to do if this is a new sound and no work has been done lately.

If it an old sound then you may have loose pipes in the wall (unfortunately would need to open wall to secure pipe and stop the noise)...if it is a water hammer issue, well that is a little harder to pinpoint and fix...sometimes installing a water hammer arrestor on the cold water line is sufficient to reduce the noise..sometimes it is not...

Please get back to me with more info....especially if it is new sound...can talk you through changing of the fill valve if you are unfamiliar with installing new valve. Thank you.

I have also developed a sort of whining noise (no banging or vibrating at all) at the filled point of the toilet flush. This happens on all toilets and not just one. We first noticed it after the Culligan man inspected our Water Softener resin. We wanted it inspected because after 10 years of use, there are rings around the toilet water anyhow. Something a water softener was supposed to prevent. He said we need it (the resin media) cleaned and he would charge $210 to do it. Sounds a a little steep to me.

I still need to get an answer why my toilets suddenly produce a howling or whining sound after his inspection.

My toilet had what sounds like the same problem, a loud whining noise when filling up after flushing.
The solution was to replace the ball valve diaphragm which had become worn out.
As this is very cheap and straightforward it might be worth trying.

Yes the ballcock is one of the problems and it is easy to fix or replace a loose washer at the angle valve will be another problem, but we don't know what the real problem is, please respond to Mark's questions, and we will find what is wrong, good luck.

John

Open and close your angle stop. If it still persist, check fill valve washer.

I own a water treatment company, and have been in the water treatment business for about 20 years. I was responding to the bed cleaning on the softener. The reason why the bed cleaning is $210 is because it takes awhile to do. Most of the time a couple of hours. So, with a service call and 2 hours labor, plus chemical to clean the bed, your $210 estimate seems fair. I normally charge $160 in my area of central Florida.

Since the softener is 10 years old, I would consider either replacing the resin bed, or the entire softener. I tell most of my customers that after 10 years, they tend to nickle and dime you and give you problems. You will wind up overhauling it over time, or replacing it. If you replace it, you get a new warranty and less aggravation.

I know this was not necessarily your main question, but I thought I would comment on it anyway.
Al

It is possible that you are hearing noise due to increased water pressure. After the softener guy was there, maybe he left the softener in bypass mode since it was not working. Check the valves, and also the softener's bypass valve. If you're not sure about it, post a pic, and I'll let you know what to check.

Are you on a municipal water supply, or well?
Al

I know the original asker has probably found some solution or other by this time, but I found the other answers lacking when I had the same problem. So, for anybody else out there coming across this, you might want to try what I did first.

I had the same problem: terrible shaking in the pipes after flushing. Not immediately after, but as the tank was finishing filliing up. Right as the cap or bulb was supposed to shut off the supply, a horrible racket would come from the walls. I could feel it in pipes (when I found a good exposed one). So, instead of installing a water hammer, or taking the walls apart to secure the pipes, or even replacing the fill valve (we have a newer fill valve, with a cup instead of a bulb or ball), I simply loosened the cap the tiniest bit. Maybe an 1/8 of a turn, if even that. I found out that it had become too tight, and the cap was not working properly, because of a disparity in the pressures. By loosening it just a nudge, the cap was able to work properly, the shaking went away, and now everything is fine.

Maybe this won't solve your problem, but it is sure worth the 5 seconds it took me to see if it would work.

Hi. I am interested in trying the above... However, what do you mean by "cap?" is that in the tank, or at the wall junction, or at the pipe to the bottom of the tank connection? I am confused.