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Home > Home & Garden > Plumbing   »   new house slab plumbing texas

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Old Nov 7, 2006, 07:46 AM
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new house slab plumbing texas

jgurley
New Member Join Date: Nov 2006

Hi,

I've spent the past few days trying to find information about how to do drain plumbing for a new home here in north Texas.

From all my searching your answers on the 'ask me' site show the most common sense and also prove your years of experiene.

Texas regrettably has laws that protect the builder more than the homeowner.

I have many questions about how to try to do the plumbing so that fewer problems occur down the road. Two of the five nearest houses have had significant problems that resulted from the plumbers either not testing their work or not doing a proper job of installation of the drain piping. One problem cost $35,000 to fix due to a prolonged leak under the slab.

Clay soil expanded in the middle of the house & heaved a large area.... they had to move walls remove a lot of concrete & rebar and replumb a large area beneath the slab.

The other house had a sewer gas leak inside the home for probably 9 years before it was resolved. This was due to a first level vent problem inside a wall. It wasn't a big problem unless the resort down the hill had a really big crowd & the lift pumps dumped more stuff into a manhole near the home.

I have posted a question on the site & would appreciate some help.

At this time I am holding up construction until I'm convinced the drain piping is done well & up to 2003 codes 'at least'.

The trades work is not required to be inspected in the country & the 'best' rated trades are judged by how quick they get the job done for the builder.

My concerns are:

- no testing of work

- dwv will be encased in footings

- only cleanout is near the slab between the house & the main sewer line (texas allows private companies to own water & sewer companies). The house plumbing is layed out with 4" entering to a 4" T. The left branch goes out to the west bathroom. The right branch has the kitchen coming in from the north, then the utility room going south, & continuing east to the master bath.

- dwv risers will be encased in 'floor' concrete with no wrap or sleeving.

- at this time I'm planning on only having a short water line under the slab & having the rest plumbed from a central manifold in the garage area. This is being done to try to prevent an under the slab leak in the future. The piping will be the 'pex' type. Don't really like the pipes overhead but figure a leak would be less damaging there. (unless it opens up completely).

I tried to get the plumber to go under the footings... but he wouldn't. The builder sides with the plumber. They installed everything while I was in dallas picking up building supplies.


Sorry for such a long message but all my searching on the internet has not given much information that is specific to my situation.

Thanks Jerry

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Old Nov 7, 2006, 08:12 AM   #2  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by speedball1
jgurley
New Member Join Date: Nov 2006

Hi,

I've spent the past few days trying to find information about how to do drain plumbing for a new home here in north Texas.

From all my searching your answers on the 'ask me' site show the most common sense and also prove your years of experiene.

Texas regrettably has laws that protect the builder more than the homeowner.

I have many questions about how to try to do the plumbing so that fewer problems occur down the road. Two of the five nearest houses have had significant problems that resulted from the plumbers either not testing their work or not doing a proper job of installation of the drain piping. One problem cost $35,000 to fix due to a prolonged leak under the slab.

Clay soil expanded in the middle of the house & heaved a large area.... they had to move walls remove a lot of concrete & rebar and replumb a large area beneath the slab.

The other house had a sewer gas leak inside the home for probably 9 years before it was resolved. This was due to a first level vent problem inside a wall. It wasn't a big problem unless the resort down the hill had a really big crowd & the lift pumps dumped more stuff into a manhole near the home.

I have posted a question on the site & would appreciate some help.

At this time I am holding up construction until I'm convinced the drain piping is done well & up to 2003 codes 'at least'.

The trades work is not required to be inspected in the country & the 'best' rated trades are judged by how quick they get the job done for the builder.

My concerns are:

- no testing of work

- dwv will be encased in footings

- only cleanout is near the slab between the house & the main sewer line (texas allows private companies to own water & sewer companies). The house plumbing is layed out with 4" entering to a 4" T. The left branch goes out to the west bathroom. The right branch has the kitchen coming in from the north, then the utility room going south, & continuing east to the master bath.

- dwv risers will be encased in 'floor' concrete with no wrap or sleeving.

- at this time I'm planning on only having a short water line under the slab & having the rest plumbed from a central manifold in the garage area. This is being done to try to prevent an under the slab leak in the future. The piping will be the 'pex' type. Don't really like the pipes overhead but figure a leak would be less damaging there. (unless it opens up completely).

I tried to get the plumber to go under the footings... but he wouldn't. The builder sides with the plumber. They installed everything while I was in dallas picking up building supplies.


Sorry for such a long message but all my searching on the internet has not given much information that is specific to my situation.

Thanks Jerry..... .
I see no reason not to bury the pex underground, although I would suggest the following:

1) Stay away from Zurn Pex -- The Uponor (wirsbo) ProPex system is the only one I would feel comfortable reccomending.

2) Pull home runs to all of the fixture points and do all of the manifolding above ground.

3) Not really neccessary, but insulate the pipe below ground to protect it from rocks and other debris.

4) Wrap the pipe thoroughly with PVC tape where it goes through the slab.
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