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    elcastle's Avatar
    elcastle Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #1

    Jun 24, 2007, 05:28 PM
    Moving a toilet over an inch.
    I have to move my toilet over an inch away from the wall per inspector's order. The top of the main sewer line is 4" below ground level encased in the concrete foundation with a 4" 90 degree street ell (spg x hub) at the end. The end of the elbow is .5" below ground level. I found an abs offset closet flange that fits inside 4" or over 3" pipe but it would raise my toilet 2" off the ground because of the 4.5" height it has. If I want to use the abs offset flange, I cannot replace the elbow because there is no elbow with that tight of a bend to work for proper sewage drainage. I found a 4" x 2" cast iron flange that would keep my toilet at ground level. Anyone know if I can connect a cast iron fitting to an abs elbow? Is so, what would be the best way to do it in order to prevent it from leaking?
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #2

    Jun 24, 2007, 08:24 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by elcastle
    I have to move my toilet over an inch away from the wall per inspector's order. The top of the main sewer line is 4" below ground level encased in the concrete foundation with a 4" 90 degree street ell (spg x hub) at the end. The end of the elbow is .5" below ground level. I found an abs offset closet flange that fits inside 4" or over 3" pipe but it would raise my toilet 2" off the ground because of the 4.5" height it has. If I want to use the abs offset flange, I cannot replace the elbow because there is no elbow with that tight of a bend to work for proper sewage drainage. I found a 4" x 2" cast iron flange that would keep my toilet at ground level. Anyone know if I can connect a cast iron fitting to an abs elbow? Is so, what would be the best way to do it in order to prevent it from leaking?
    Would it be easier to flat stud the wall that is 14" away -- Or is it a load bearing wall?
    elcastle's Avatar
    elcastle Posts: 11, Reputation: 1
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    #3

    Jun 25, 2007, 12:04 AM
    It's not a load-bearing wall. I've heard about a flat stud wall but could you elaborate? I've also thought about just removing the wall with door all together because all it does is separate the sink area from the toilet/shower area. By removing the wall I'd have to move a GFI electrical outlet, an exhaust fan switch, and a light switch. In hindsight, all that seems so much easier than moving the toilet over.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #4

    Jun 25, 2007, 04:47 AM
    Why couldn't you simp0ly cut 2 inches off the stock of the ABS flange? Just a thought.
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #5

    Jun 25, 2007, 06:46 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1
    Why couldn't you simp0ly cut 2 inches off the stock of the ABS flange? Just a thought.
    Wouldn't that pretty much mean the entire gluing surface and then some of the 4" flange, Tom?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
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    #6

    Jun 25, 2007, 07:47 AM
    Quote Originally Posted by iamgrowler
    Wouldn't that pretty much mean the entire gluing surface and then some of the 4" flange, Tom?
    Perhaps, I thought the ABS flange was a deep flange that had a long shank.
    Oh well! So much for thinking!
    iamgrowler's Avatar
    iamgrowler Posts: 1,421, Reputation: 110
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    #7

    Jun 25, 2007, 05:26 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by speedball1
    Perhaps, I thought the ABS flange was a deep flange that had a long shank.
    Oh well! so much for thinking!
    >chuckles<

    Somebody has to be the cranky voice of reason, Tom.

    :D
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