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    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #1

    Feb 9, 2006, 12:11 PM
    Moved From E Mail-- Shower drain Seal.
    I am replacing the drain in a fiberglass shower due to a leak. Evidently the
    Drain had worked loose over time. My question is whether to use
    Plumber's putty or silicone around the lip of the drain? I thought plumber's
    Putty but I happen to notice on the back label of the container that it says not
    To use with plactic. I have a PVC drain. Do they make different kinds of
    Plumber's putty or do I use silicone with PVC? I have a container of Oatey
    Plumber's putty. It say's "Stainless, Caulking, & Sealing Compound" on the
    Label. If I use the putty, any idea how much of a bead to use?

    Thanks for any help,
    Steve

    After I sent the initial email I thought of something additional to note. Is it
    Possible to make this fix without accessing the retaining nut underneath the
    Shower? This is an upstairs shower with the leak affecting the downstairs
    Ceiling. I got the old drain out by turning it counter clockwise inside the
    Shower. It had loosened a bit causing the leak. It was difficult to remove the
    Screws holding the strainer in place so I had to get another drain altogether.

    Can I just add plumber's putty to the new top piece and screw it into the
    Existing bottom fixture from inside the shower without ruining the seal of the
    Putty or silicone? I hope that makes sense. I know the ideal method would be
    To cut the ceiling and tighten from underneath, but I'm trying to avoid cutting
    Into the ceiling if possible.

    Thanks,
    Steve


    You may use either silcon jell or putty. If you use plumbers putty make a 1/2" ring. The lip will squeeze out what it doesn't need. The same for jell. just clean off the excess. On marble or some types of porous plastic the oil on the putty can leach through and stain. I've never had this happen on plastic and this is what I still use.
    However, you can not tighten the drain from the top. It will spin out the seal. you must tighten the retaining nut. Sorry Steve, you're gonna hafta open up the ceiling.
    On another note I'm concerned that you may be setting yourself up for the same thing to happen again. Shower drain seals fail when the shower floor isn't bedded properly and the floor will give or flex a bit when stepped into and weight is put on it. This puts a strain between the lip and the shower floor and eventually will work the seal out from under the lip.
    Shower floors are bedded by "puddling" mortar or cement under the floor and letting it harden for support. You may also block it up with wood if that's handier. Good luck and next time please post your questions on the plumbing page. Thanks, tom
    Fergy's Avatar
    Fergy Posts: 1, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #2

    Feb 9, 2006, 01:38 PM
    Thanks for the reply. When I access the retaining nut from underneath is it glued to the other pipe or can I spin it freely in order to tighten the drain?
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #3

    Feb 9, 2006, 03:22 PM
    Quote Originally Posted by Fergy
    Thanks for the reply. When I access the retaining nut from underneath is it glued to the other pipe or can I spin it freely in order to tighten the drain?
    The retaining nut threads are not glued. You should be able to tighten it without any trouble. Good luck, Tom

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