I am re-routing the main sewer line that goes through the basement/crawl space of my 70+ year old house.

Simply put, there are too many re-plumbs, new lines, and/or patches by previous generations. In the next months, a new kitchen and bathroom downstairs are going to cut into this patchwork 2 times too many. It is time to bite the bullet and replace all the way from the point the line leaves the house (in the front) back to the kithcen (in the back).

The line goes down into the ground and out to the front of the house - this is crawl space. Seemingly, the easiest way is to remove an elbow that fits into a hub protruding from the the hard, West Virginia red clay floor of the crawl space. Into this, I wish to fit the 4" PVC. It will rise about 2 1/2 feet to the horizontal waste line, running past the soon-to-be-remodeled downstairs bath to the rear of the house where the kitchen is located.

What is the best way to join the PVC to the cast iron hub protruding from the clay floor of the crawl space?

I've read many discussions on joining these materials. I can use a fitting that allows me to pack oakum and caulk with either lead or plastic filler that supposedly can be used in lieu of lead. The only drawback is waiting the required 24 hour cure time of the caulk before using the line; I'd like to switch over in one well-planned day.

The other method is to use a "donut". The donut is lubricated inside and out, slipped over the PVC, slid up to allow the PVC to bottom out, slid down and driven into the hub using a wedge.

Both seem to be effective methods - I'd like some feedback on the merits and/or disadvantages of each.

I'm avoiding cutting the hub off and using a metal-banded sleeve, as the other two methods won't require me to dig into the clay floor (did I mention how hard WV clay is?). I know I must use a metal banded sleeve to meet code.

But - I can be talked into this approach if I can be convinced it is more effective, long lasting, or less troublesome in the future - I'm not in the mood to crawl in there in a few years to replace and/or rework.

Thanks for such a great forum! This place is GREAT!

Stew

speedball1

Good morning Stew and thanks for your input on the icemaker saddle valve.
"What is the best way to join the PVC to the cast iron hub protruding from the clay floor of the crawl space?

I've read many discussions on joining these materials. I can use a fitting that allows me to pack oakum and caulk with either lead or plastic filler that supposedly can be used in lieu of lead. The only drawback is waiting the required 24 hour cure time of the caulk before using the line; I'd like to switch over in one well-planned day.
The other method is to use a "donut". The donut is lubricated inside and out, slipped over the PVC, slid up to allow the PVC to bottom out, slid down and driven into the hub using a wedge.
Both seem to be effective methods - I'd like some feedback on the merits and/or disadvantages of each.
You have just pointed out the drawback to the plastic filler in a lead and oakum poured joint. I'm going to have to go with the Dual-Tite Gasket.
Insert the neoprene gasket into the hub. Do not grease the outside of the gasket before inserting. Now take a file and bevel the sharp edges so the pipe won't hang up on the ridges in the gasket. Next lube the pipe and the inside of the gasket with Dual-Tite Lubricant or a heavy grease. Push the pipe in untill it seats on the bottom of the hub. If the pipe's difficult to start it's OK to trim back the first few ridges with a sharp knife. Good luck, Tom

stew_1962

Thanks Tom!