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Home > Home & Garden > Plumbing   »   Low water pressure at tub

 
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Old Jun 20, 2009, 11:30 AM
Tonglebeak
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Low water pressure at tub

Hello. Tub spout recently replaced, as well as the showerhead (needed new ones of both anyways due to bad diverter valve, and I didn't like the old head).

Anyways, I find water pressure coming out to be very low. It's so low that when the shower is being used, and I turn the showerhead upside down, the water only goes a couple of inches in the air.

I started reading about repairing faucets and such. I got the handle off, and the compression nut, but I don't know where to go from here (in fact, I think I'm going the wrong way for this problem).

Behind the faucet are two valves that still let drips of water come out when fully closed (I hate that, old plumbing, etc).However, there are stainless steel supply hoses coming out of the valve and into a brass-looking body with 2 inlets and 2 outlets (hot/cold, tub/shower). After removing the hoses and aiming them into a bucket, and turning the water back on, I get a massive amount of pressure (that I would expect). This is true for both hot and cold. Also, not that it matters, but I get great water pressure out of the bathroom sink as well.

So I guess my next step is getting this brass body off. Am I correct? It appears the body is screwed into the tub's pipe, but the other three ports have the steel hoses and the shower pipe screwed onto them. The fitting on the shower pipe refuses to budge though, and I'm afraid of causing more harm than good.

It's an Aquasource single-handle faucet. If anyone needs pictures I can gladly supply them. Thanks!

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Old Jun 20, 2009, 03:38 PM   #2  
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If you can post a picture will be great, is the problem with tub and shoer both or only shower head if it shower head only remove the shower head turn on the water and check how is the pressure if it is good then the problem is with shower head check inside there is a restrictor remove it and toss it out, if it is both the tub and the shower the problem is with your valve and you don't have to replace the whole assembly just the cartridge/the seals or the ball depends on your valve, Thanks.

John
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Old Jun 20, 2009, 05:05 PM   #3  
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Hi afaroo.

I suppose I did forget to mention...it's low out of both tub spout and shower head. I took a couple of pics (excuse the water spots on the 3rd pic )





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Old Jun 20, 2009, 05:24 PM   #4  
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Tonglebeak....

I just saw the picture!!

You need to stop and remove the black iron nipples that are installed there.....they are the wrong nipples for this job!! Here, dissimilar metals are joined and that creates an electrolytic effect/depositing that will cause rust, cause water discoloration and quickly cause the pipes/valve to clog up with sediment!!

You need to install BRASS NIPPLES here...

While you have the valve out disassemble it and clear all ports.......should be quick easy job! If you want the best VOLUME you can get pipe this all as 1/2" solid copper or brass pipe from the shutoffs forward...get rid of the flexible connectors.

MARK

PS...the piping below the shutoffs isn't black iron pipe too is it...??? Let me know.

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Milo Dolezal agrees: Good catch, Mark !
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Old Jun 20, 2009, 05:39 PM   #5  
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Quote:
Originally Posted by massplumber2008 View Post
Tonglebeak....

I just saw the picture!!

You need to stop and remove the black iron nipples that are installed there.....they are the wrong nipples for this job!! Here, dissimilar metals are joined and that creates an electrolytic effect/depositing that will cause rust, cause water discoloration and quickly cause the pipes/valve to clog up with sediment!!

You need to install BRASS NIPPLES here...

While you have the valve out disassemble it and clear all ports.......should be quick easy job! If you want the best VOLUME you can get pipe this all as 1/2" solid copper or brass pipe from the shutoffs forward...get rid of the flexible connectors.

MARK

PS...the piping below the shutoffs isn't black iron pipe too is it...??? Let me know.
Hi, here's a pic of the pipes below it (this house is 102 years old btw lol):



What do you mean brass nipples? And how do I remove the valve to begin with? I thought loosening the fitting that leads to the shower would help, but the fitting will not budge at all.

Sorry for the stupid questions, but I'm a complete noob when it comes to plumbing. I can follow instructions nicely though and learn
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Old Jun 20, 2009, 08:01 PM   #6  
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Great pics...thanks! Brass pipe is a threaded pipe/fitting that is compatible with the brass valves in place at your tub/shower valve....you could also use copper pipe and fittings which are in place below your shutoffs. Those black nipples are primarily used in fitting gas piping or boiler piping...replace as suggested! Clean the valve thereafter...bet it fixes all this!

From the hot water shutoff forward, you need to replace all in brass or copper pipe for maximum volume.

For the cold water I believe the nipple before the shutoff is also black iron and needs to be replaced. You can use the old shutoff, but need to replace that nipple before the shutoff as mentioned.

The shower pipe is all set, but the pipe feeding the tub will also need to be replaced.

To make this work you need to shut off the main water shutoff into the house, remove the flexible connectors at the valve and then install all new fittings and pipe to the tub/shower valve. While disconnecting all the black pipe you want to clean all inlets/outlets to the valve to clear of any sediment as mentioned.

Otherwise, I recommend all the above but I recommend replacing the tub/shower valve completely as most common brands are only $100.00 or so....I recommend the symmons allura series (1st pic.) or the s-96-2 (2nd pic.)....

If you are not comfortable with all this hire a local plumber...get 2-3 estimates and go with person you are most comfortable with. Do not pay the balance in full until you are satisfied with the job!

Let me know if you want to discuss more...

MARK
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Old Jun 20, 2009, 08:03 PM   #7  
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What sorts of nipples? Like what sizes? I'm sure I can find them at Lowes correct?

Any idea on how to get the fitting off that leads to the shower? And how do I actually remove the valve body itself from the faucet?
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Old Jun 20, 2009, 08:21 PM   #8  
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They are 1/2" I.P.S. brass nipples by whatever length you need.

Easiest would be to replace the black iron nipples exactly with the brass nipples and then reconnect using the flexible connectors (use teflon tape). Leave the shower piping alone as it is already copper!

If you want to connect all together with solid piping then that is a bit more involved...


Please reread post #6 as I added more while you were posting...thanks!


Let me know...
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Old Jun 20, 2009, 08:34 PM   #9  
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Thanks for the response I'm quite comfortable with giving it ago. I'll cry more if I can't figure it out

Thanks again!
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Old Jun 21, 2009, 01:01 AM   #10  
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Hello Tonglebeak,

I agree with Mark 100% like he says dissimilar metals are joined and that creates an electrolytic effect/depositing that will cause rust, cause water discoloration and quickly cause the pipes/valve to clog up with sediment!!

Follow his instructions and I am sure your issue will be resolved, good luck.

John
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