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I've got a single handle delta kitchen faucet that has the pull out faucet head. Since installation (new home) there was less water pressure when we go to the hot side. The cold side has great pressure as does every other faucet in the house. We are on city water and this is the only problem area. Yes, the valve under the sink is open all the way...I thought of that :-)
Is it possible the washers in the top are bad and blocking the port? Ideas?
Also one of the single handle lavatory faucets was very loose. I tightened it up, but now it's a bit too snug. Should I have used some sort of lube when reassembling? It almost looked like white grease in it when I took it apart.
Your presure is actually probably very good on the hot side but the volume is restricted so it appears to be low pressure. Shut off the main. Remove the cartridge and clean the hot inlet port. While the the cartridge is removed have someone else yurn your main on/off quickly while you hold a towel over the open valve body, this flushes other rud out. Reinstall using silcine jel or plumbers grease.
I agree with Bob, there may be debris in the inside the faucet, close both cold and hot angle valves under the sink, remove the cartridge and flush the faucet as Bob says, lubricate the cartridge seals with some silicon gel and install the cartridge, if this will not solve your problem then you need to replace the cartridge.
Your second faucet I would suggest to disassebmble,use some of the silicon gel too and reassemble see if it works, good luck.
Thanks for the tips. The faucet is a Delta single handle kitchen with pull out sprayer head. I picked up the grease and a parts kit before I tore into it. I cleaned it out (it was clean), replaced the washers, lubed the ball, etc and flushed it. No change. I then pulled the feed line from the valve to the faucet and replaced that and flushed again. This time the pressure on the hot side matched the cold. The valve isn't acting right on the hot side because it won't completely shut off. I was going to replace it since I was there, but it's crimped on and I don't have a way to do that with a new one. There isn't much pipe under the sink to cut much out and crimp a new on on either. The faucet has good pressure on both sides now though.
If you want to replace the angle valve I can walk you through how to replace it if you tell me what kind of angle valve do you have is it a sweat type or compression type, and tell me what is your problem with double toilet flush, Thanks.
The valve is a compression type that is crimped on to the plastic feed line coming up thru the cabinet bottom. I'm assuming I need to cut the line to remove the valve and then get another either crimped on or one that will attach via compression. I remember using something called Quest years ago.
The double flushing toilet is an American Standard. I replaced a leaking unit with a Fluidmaster unit and put a new flapper on. The flapper comes up fine and falls back down to seal fine, but before it falls back down the toiled flushed in the bowl twice. The tank completely empties almost before it flops back down to seal. The chain isn't hanging up and everything is clear. I have to turn the supply valve way down to where it's almost closed to keep it from doing this.
Thanks
Greg
The angle valve (compression Valve) you don't need to replace the valve assembly, see the image below just remove the stem and replace the washer you will be Ok.
On the toilet issue read the following and do it accordingly and you will be Ok too.
A flapper replacement is one the easiest repair jobs going. Let me show you how. Shut the water off at the angle stop located under the tank and flush the water out. If you have a newer toilet you will see where the old flapper hooks onto the base of the white overflow tube. On an older type with no hooks the flapper has a ring that slips down over the overflow tube to the seat. If your tank has hooks, take a sharp knife and cut the neoprene ring off on the marks provided and hook the flapper on the hooks. Now attach the linkage, (chain) to the flush lever. The chain should have 1/4" of play when the flapper's seated. Too much play the flapper will close too soon. Too little play the flapper will not be allowed to raise high enough. Set your water 1 inch below the rim of the overflow tube and be sure the little tube that comes out of the top of the ballcock is connected to the white overflow tube.
On the angle valve washer replacement I forgot to ask you to close the main water shut off valve before replacing the washer, please close that,Thanks.
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