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I recently remodeled my bathroom and installed a new shower diverter et all. While the shower is running the is a leak inside the wall where the shower arm screws into the elbow. I have tried teflon tape, great white, both to no avail. When I install the arm it gets extremely tight when the output is facing away from the tub (i.e. towards the ceiling) and I'm afraid if I tighten it anymore it will strip the threads, so I turn it half a turn back so it's pointing into the tub. Any advice on how to get this leak to stop, and/or if I go a half turn forwards what are the chances of me damaging it? Any/all help is appreciated.
Suggest to remove the shower arm use a flashlight check the threads on the arm and the elbow for cracks if no cracks found, clean threads on both arm and the elbow, use 5-6 turns of teflon tape, install the arm, check for leaks, if still leaking next thing is replace the arm it is not expensive, good luck.
What are you using to tighten the shower arm? Remove shower arm. Coat threads with generous coat of pipe thread joint compound. Screw in shower arm by hand. Insert a large screw driver or small rod in the end of the shower arm. A 6 or 8" 3/8" drive rachet extension makes a great tool. This extends the length of the bent portion of the shower and gives you the leverage to tighten the shower arm by hand. This way you should be able to tighten the arm sufficiently to stop any leaks and you can not over tighten.
What are you using to tighten the shower arm? Remove shower arm. Coat threads with generous coat of pipe thread joint compound. Screw in shower arm by hand. Insert a large screw driver or small rod in the end of the shower arm. A 6 or 8" 3/8" drive rachet extension makes a great tool. This extends the length of the bent portion of the shower and gives you the leverage to tighten the shower arm by hand. This way you should be able to tighten the arm sufficiently to stop any leaks and you can not over tighten.
Hmm, for some reason I can't rate your answer?
Anywho, I've been using adjustable wrench (wrapped to prevent marring) to twist the arm...again, I was just afraid turning too much would strip the threads of the arm and/or the coupling. My shower arm isn't the standard, it is about 16" long and dead ends at a 90 angle where the shower head goes on. Still suggest the rachet extension?
Can you show me a pic. How have you been using an adjustable wrench or do you mean a pipe wrench? The rod is just a way or increasing the leverage so you can do it by hand and without scratching or marring the finish. Does the arm have shoulders on the end next to the wall or are you using the wrench on the 90 degree turn at the end. I don't think you are going to strip out the threads with a 6" or smaller wrench.
Most people say Teflon tape. For this job i prefer the pipe dope. I have been told, and it seems to be correct, that neither Teflon or the pipe dope seal the threads, that they work by lubricating the threads. Try the pipe dope and note the difference in the feel as you screw it in.
Try to use pipe dope as Harold stated but Teflon Tape would do the job also you need to use 5-6 or a little more turns of the tape, don't forget to use an extension rod for more leverage, Good Luck.
Can you show me a pic. How have you been using an adjustable wrench or do you mean a pipe wrench? The rod is just a way or increasing the leverage so you can do it by hand and without scratching or marring the finish. Does the arm have shoulders on the end next to the wall or are you using the wrench on the 90 degree turn at the end. I don't think you are going to strip out the threads with a 6" or smaller wrench.
Most people say Teflon tape. For this job i prefer the pipe dope. I have been told, and it seems to be correct, that neither Teflon or the pipe dope seal the threads, that they work by lubricating the threads. Try the pipe dope and note the difference in the feel as you screw it in.
I'm using the adjustable wrench on the 90 degree end where the shower head connects. If you have another idea please share...otherwise I'm going to remove, re-cover with pipe dope, and turn it that extra bit. Thanks for all of your help.
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