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Lead Pipe/cast iron

Asked Jan 14, 2006, 06:06 PM — 4 Answers
Hi!

I just removed drywall to fix a drain from a bathroom sink. I found 1.5" soft lead pipe from the p-trap to a 3" hub on the cast iron stack. Can I use some kind of coupler from the lead pipe to new plastic or do I need to replace the entire length of pipe? If I need to replace, what's a good way to remove the old lead and oakum? I'd rather avoid heat because the pipe is quite close to old wooden studs. If I need to cut the studs, I will but I'd rather not.

Thanks!

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4 Answers
freebie314's Avatar
freebie314 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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#2

Jan 14, 2006, 06:25 PM
No-Hub
If your wanting to keep the drain inside the wall that is 1.5 inch,. And your wanting to use an adapter to go to an 1.5 inch tublar pvc drain(p-trap) then you can use a 1-1/2 to 1-1/4 Fernco adapter, that will go straight from the drain to the arm on the trap..but you could also cut the drain inside the wall about 2 inches from the 3" stack and use an 1-1/2 fernco to adapt to 1-1/2 pvc,.. I hope that made sense)
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speedball1's Avatar
speedball1 Posts: 27,655, Reputation: 9541
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#3

Jan 15, 2006, 09:03 AM


Quote:
Originally Posted by JohnN
Hi!

I just removed drywall to fix a drain from a bathroom sink. I found 1.5" soft lead pipe from the p-trap to a 3" hub on the cast iron stack. Can I use some kind of coupler from the lead pipe to new plastic or do I need to replace the entire length of pipe? If I need to replace, what's a good way to remove the old lead and oakum? I'd rather avoid heat because the pipe is quite close to old wooden studs. If I need to cut the studs, I will but I'd rather not.

Thanks!
First off, get rid of the lead pipe and replace with 2" PVC and if the trap is cast iron get rid of that also. You now have a clear shot to replace with all PVC to the 3" hub.
To remove the lead /oakum joint take a small sharp chisel and drive it under the lead cutting the joint in two. You may now began to lever up the lead ring and pull it out. Clear the hub of oakum.
This will clear the way to convert to PVC. Cut a short piece of 3" PVC and connect it to the 3" hub using a 3" rubber gasket,( see image) Bevel and grease the edge of the short piece so it will slide in easier. Now prime and glue in a 3X2" PVC reducer on the end of the short piece. You may now pipe to the trap. At the trap you may bush down to 1 1/2" and use a 1 1/2" compression fittring to connect to the tub or make the raiser 2" and use a 2" compression fitting with a 2X1/12" nylon gasket to pick up the tub. Regards, Tom
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freebie314's Avatar
freebie314 Posts: 8, Reputation: 1
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#4

Jan 15, 2006, 09:12 AM
2" for a lav? Sorry speedball but your idea sounds like it's the long way around...
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speedball1's Avatar
speedball1 Posts: 27,655, Reputation: 9541
Senior Plumbing Expert
  
#5

Jan 15, 2006, 11:39 AM


Quote:
Originally Posted by freebie314
2" for a lav? Sorry speedball but your idea sounds like it's the long way around...
That's right Freebie, We haven't run drain lines under 2" since the late 60's. However if size is a problem you may use 1 1/2" PVC.
We can do it your way using the old lead pipe, (which has been against code since the 40's) or we can do it the right way. Since lead pipe is soft and not ridged and a Fernco Neoprene Coupling uses hose clamps to make a water tight connection I would be interested in knowing just how you intend to make the hose clamp tight enough on that soft lead pipe to make the connection water tight.
Waiting on your reply. Tom
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