I removed a shower pan base and drain but the threaded base is still in line with the sub floor. I have tried to twist this off but it will not move. I am wanting to lay tile in the base of the shower so I bought a shower pan drain for this.. The problem is that the existing plumbing has a screw in base. Do I cut the sub floor out and cut the PVC piping or is ther another way to get this off?

Milo Dolezal

You should be able to unscrew it. Sure, it won't go easily, but it will go. Keep trying. Be patient...

If it doesn't go, than cut square hole around the drain, cut riser below the floor and then install new drain.

What kind of shower pay are you planning on doing ?

speedball1

Is this the drain that's giving you a problem?

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Shorty10r

Looks kind of similar but it doesn't have the screws on the top. The one I am replacing it with does. I couldn't get it unscrewed so I ended up cutting the PVC.... hope this is ok! Just got a coupling and more 2" PVC straight tube. Is there a way to test this before I lay the liner and mortar?

massplumber2008

Hey Shorty:

If you prime and cement the PVC then the 2 or 3 joints you are putting together will not need to be tested...

The shower pan, on the other hand will need to be tested properly, for sure!

First thing to do is to prepitch your membrane by installing about an inch of the mortar you will be using to make your shower pan and pitching that to about 1/4" at drain. Once the mortar dries you will lay down some tar paper and then install your liner and drain.

After the liner is installed wait overnight before plugging the drain (use a test ball...see image, or a plastic bag with socks in it) and testing the pan by filling it with water to the threshold level for 24 hours.

After this period of time, if no leaks present, then you can pour the shower floor as needed. Be sure to use plenty of small rocks at the PVC membrane drain to insure that the WEEP HOLES in the drain don't clog.

LAstly, be sure that your chicken wire is long enough to install into the shower floor and over the threshold. DO NOT do what the guy at the link provided did. Otherwise, his link is a good one.

Here is a link that may help you understand how to do a better job:

How to Build a Shower Pan

Let me know if you have more questions...

MARK

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Shorty10r

I was reading in a do it yourself book to do the following:
1st build your walls, 2nd lay down vinyl and then screw on middle section of drain, 3rd put on wire, 4th mortar, test for 24 hours, apply thin set, tile

What are weep holes?

massplumber2008

Weep holes are holes in the drain assembly that allow water caught in the shower pan liner to drain by gravity toward the drain. If the membrane is not PREPITCHED then the weep holes are usless anyway.

Prepitch the membrane!

If you pop back later we also have a couple tile/shower specialists here...I am sure they will provide even better information...

MARK

Shorty10r

I see... understand now! thanks so much will let you know if I have anymore questions... When I put up the mold resistant hardibacker I do this after I mortar not before correct?

Shorty10r

Actually I bought green drywall, is it ok to tile on this

massplumber2008

If you are doing a custom shower you want to install a VAPOR BARRIER and then INSTALL 1/2" HARDIBACKER CEMENT BOARD with alkali-resistant mesh tape and screws.

Do NOT install green board at the shower. If there is any failure in the tile system the green board will quickly WICK the moisture up and into the green board creating mold and will quickly break down with a poor end result!!

Install cement board only...

MARK