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I want to install 6" PVC butterfly valves in a 6" PVC potable water line. I find three types of butterfly valves: standard, which has a collar, or "lugs," around it with bolt holes through it; lug insert and true lug styles, which have threaded metal lugs in the bolt holes; and a wafer type, which has no collar at all, and which the description says is to be used between two flanges. Aren't all of these valves used between two flanges? Which should I use and why?
Can I use a valve with Buna-N seats, or does code require EPDM for potable water?
I want to install 6" PVC butterfly valves in a 6" PVC potable water line. I find three types of butterfly valves: standard, which has a collar, or "lugs," around it with bolt holes through it; lug insert and true lug styles, which have threaded metal lugs in the bolt holes; and a wafer type, which has no collar at all, and which the description says is to be used between two flanges. Aren't all of these valves used between two flanges? Which should I use and why?
Can I use a valve with Buna-N seats, or does code require EPDM for potable water?
What in the world are you supplying with a 6" supply? I'm not familiar with all the different types of butterfly valves except this type, (see image). Pricey at $266.25 this is the only kind I've run into in my area. Perhaps one of the other experts has more information then I. This sounds like heavy stuff. What's the application for? A swimming pool?: Regards, Tom
I want to install 6" PVC butterfly valves in a 6" PVC potable water line. I find three types of butterfly valves: standard, which has a collar, or "lugs," around it with bolt holes through it; lug insert and true lug styles, which have threaded metal lugs in the bolt holes; and a wafer type, which has no collar at all, and which the description says is to be used between two flanges. Aren't all of these valves used between two flanges? Which should I use and why?
Can I use a valve with Buna-N seats, or does code require EPDM for potable water?
I am a certified water treatment operator in Florida, so I work with Potable water frequently. Usually if I am using butterfly valves, they are in agricultural or industrial applications. They do tend to leak a little over time. The advantages are that they are inexpensive compared to a quality gate valve, and they are easily replaced.
All butterfly valves fit between 2 flanges. The threaded lug-type allows you to work on the pipe on one side of the valve, without depressurizing upstream of the valve. The drop-in type allows for easy replacement, but if you have to take the line apart at the valve, you have to de-pressurize both sides.
If you use a butterfly valve, be sure and go with a metal body, cast iron or stainless steel is best. And the disc should be bronze or stainless steel. Even if the valve body is carbon steel, it will still hold up pretty well since it is covered by rubber.
The valves need to be NSF approved to be used on potable water.
If it were me doing it, I would strongly advise using a cast-iron, epoxy-lined, resilient wedge gate valve instead. It is what municipalities use nowadays. This type of valve is also flanged, or mechanical compression. The epoxy coating preserves the metal. The resilient wedge holds up very well. If it is above ground, use a rising stem so that you can see if it is open or closed on a glance. If it is in-ground, then you'll need to use a non-rising stem in a valve box. It is typical to get 20 years of service out of this type of valve.
A word of caution...use good quality valves regardless of what you buy. I always say that there is no sense in installing a valve if it is not going to work when you need it.
One other thing...make sure that you let glue dry for several hours, and use heavy-bodied glue made for 6" pipe.
Al
Hey Speedball,
Thanks for the compliment. I am in Wimauma, just southeast of Sun City Center...1/2 between Tampa and Sarasota. There was probably a different way to answer the question. But being new to this forum, I haven't figured out how to do that yet.
I have about 20 years experience in the water treatment business, and have my own water treatment company. I really get tired of people getting ripped off by softener salesmen. It is bad for the industry, and one of the reasons I don't pursue residential more than I do.
I do mostly commercial, industrial, agricultural, and some residential also.
I actually logged onto the web-site looking for some advice for my expensive pressure washer dying, and stumbled onto a few posts that I could chime in on. I'll probably check in from time to time and put in a couple of cents worth here and there.
I read some of your posts. Keep up the good work!
Al
I have a question for you regarding a water filter installation, I am tired of taking the bottles for refill at the water stores, if you can tell me what type of water filter should I install in my house and where to buy it, Thanks.
Hey John,
Before I answer, I need some additional info. Are you on well or municipal water? Are you interested in your whole house, or just a small faucet to mount to your sink, and also do you want to feed the icemaker/ water on the fridge door?
Al
John,
Are you on well or municipal water? It makes a big difference in the type of treatment...if you want it to be effective. If you want, you can send me an e-mail to get it out of this string. I don't know...I'm new at this message board thing.
Thanks,
Al
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