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Increase water pressure from a well
Asked Aug 30, 2004, 03:44 PM
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53 Answers Hello again, this is my third trip here, and both previous sessions were very helpful. I've just purchased a new house that is supplied by a well. There is a pump at the bottom of the well (I see an electrical wire going toward the well head). The pipe from the well feeds into a pressure tank that has another pump attached to it. The system works fine, except that the water pressure is too low. Showers are weak, especially on the upper floors. I notice the pressure increases slightly when the pump kicks on. Is there a way to increase the pressure delivered to the house? Is the pressure delivered while the pump is on the max that this system will deliver? Would a larger tank help? Thanks. Glenn |
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| My understanding is that keeping the reset switch jammed "on" will run the pump. I could be wrong about that. At any rate, you seemed to have checked that and it would seem the pump is not running. If you have any concerns about it, just turn off the breaker before you turn in. You can always turn it back on in the morning when you need it. And do let us know how the whole deal is resolved. | ||||
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| These sites are really good about switches/wells. Can be an interesting read before the pro arrives. Boulder/GNC Water Well: How to reset a Square-D Low Pressure Cutoff (-M4) Switch Green Road Farm ~ Submersible well pump installation & Troubleshooting | ||||
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The problem is that it won't go past 35 and without the magic marker being wedged in, the pressure drops in a hurry. Could this have something to do with the tank being waterlogged?
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| "Could this have something to do with the tank being waterlogged?" You can check out the waterlogged deal by simply pressing the air valve at the top. If the tank is completely waterlogged, water will come out the valve. Even if the bladder is ruptured, you can refill the tank with air at the valve and reverse the waterlogged condition. I had an old tank for a couple of years that I would just add air to every couple of months until I got around to replacing it. A waterlogged tank will typically cause the pump to"short-cycle", meaning it will cut on for a few seconds, then off for a few seconds, and so on. However, this will only happen when water is being used. The reason is that there is so little air at the top of the tank that small amounts of water being added or drawn from the tank causes big pressure changes. I have never heard of a waterlogged tank causing a system to stay at a low pressure and not pump up to cutoff point. "The problem is that it won't go past 35 and without the magic marker being wedged in, the pressure drops in a hurry." Question: When you don't have the magic marker fix going, and the system will not go above 35#, does the switch cut the pump off at 35# (breaker points separate) or does the pump just continue to run but not go above 35#? IF the switch is cutting the pump off at 35#, then the switch would seem to be the problem. If the pump will not pump above 35#, then the pump would seem to be the culprit, barring a leak in the well pipe somewhere. | ||||
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| Jlisenbe, Firstly, the repair people couldn't come on Friday, but they promise to arrive first thing Monday morning. They assured me that my magic marker fix wouldn't hurt the pump. As to your question: The breaker points do NOT separate. P. S. Thanks for the links. | ||||
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| The holding tank was completely full of water and was clogged with iron deposits, as was the iron filter and salter. Fortunately, we had a spare tank in the basement that was better than the one being used. They were switched after the tank was drained and both filters have gone to the shop to be serviced. The pump itself will be checked after the ground thaws, because the water pressure is still at 35. It's a bloody good 35, though and the pump is under warranty. | ||||
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