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Home > Home & Garden > Plumbing   »   how best to sweat angle stop with extension?

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Old Jul 25, 2009, 08:41 PM
jjustinia
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how best to sweat angle stop with extension?

I wanted to get advice on how to cleanly solder the Brasscraft - Supply Valves CS40B C1 Angle Valve (see pic). I see they slip over the 1/2 inch stub i have but how much overlap should i have for sweating and if it is too long do i cut the chrome covered ext tube? i wanted some expertise on how to get the best looking results before i try and mess it up. I wanted some hints on how to not burn the wall when i sweat and get it all to be coverd by the eschuchen. if someone can impart their wisdom on these matters i would be greatful.

Thank you

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Old Jul 26, 2009, 04:23 PM   #11  
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very helpful, now i have a plan. i will probably go with compression as i bet the shark bite are a bit expensive, as is the removal tool. i will get the flat escutcheon aS kiss suggested and all should be fine. everyone is comfortable that they wont leak or be pushed off by the water pressure, i assume or you would not have recommended.
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Old Jul 26, 2009, 04:25 PM   #12  
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Correct.

Compression valves are very reliable...
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Old Jul 26, 2009, 04:27 PM   #13  
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excellent! thank you for the quality advice
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Old Jul 26, 2009, 04:37 PM   #14  
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Another hint:

You can sleave the pipe in the wall with PVC. This method works a lot better to be able to seal and/or firestop the pipes through the wall.

Conventional drywall patching to he PVC and then a firestop from the PVC and copper. The copper can protrude slightly to give to an edge to patch to.
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Old Jul 26, 2009, 04:39 PM   #15  
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Thank you. We have fun doing it!!
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Old Jul 26, 2009, 04:45 PM   #16  
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The drawback of the flat estucheon is that it rquires 2 screws to secure it. This might be an issue with ceramic tile.

Mark:

Do you know of a quality supplier of chrome plated estucheons?
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Old Jul 26, 2009, 04:49 PM   #17  
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Hey hey...

The ones at the local plumbing supply house always work for me....not sure of the name brand. Here is an example of the most common one used with a compression valve.

It can be secured to the wall with a dab of adhesive caulking on the back side.

Last note here, by the way...just for future posters. The extended shutoff with bell flange can actually be cut down and then installed.

Typically, I will measure so the shutoff ends up at about 3.5" to center from the finished wall. I remember to deduct for the 1/2" to 3/4" that I need to keep the shutoff away from the wall and cut that measure.

Then I use the reaming tool on the copper tubing cutter to ream the end so that it is slightly flared (YUP!! There's actually a use for that thing on the tool... see image). The cut/reamed end needs to be cleaned very well using the sandcloth and the 1/2" cleaning brush. Flux, solder, etc.....

If after cutting you don't round/flare the shutoff end you will never install it!!

Again, just F.Y.I for future readers!

MARK
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Old Jul 27, 2009, 04:44 AM   #18  
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Quote:
You cannot cut the chrome piece. The estucheuns turn into mush in a few years You can sleave the pipe in the wall with PVC. This method works a lot better to be able to seal and/or firestop the pipes through the wall. Conventional drywall patching to he PVC and then a firestop from the PVC and copper. The copper can protrude slightly to give to an edge to patch to. The drawback of the flat estucheon is that it rquires 2 screws to secure it.
Kiss, I can understand why the Asker had difficulty in following you. I'm having the same problem myself.
1) why can't the chrome tube be cut back?
2) What climate are you in that will turn chrome estucheouns to mush? Ours are still shiny after years and years. So if the chrome escutcheons turn to mush in your area whadda ya use to cover the holes in the wall the stub outs come outta?? and what's with this? "The drawback of the flat estucheon is that it rquires 2 screws to secure it." SAY WHAT?? Notice the little teeth in the opening. Their there for a reason. They grip the copper stub out and hold it against the wall.
For a bit more insurance you can dab some adhesive Dap on the back of the plate.
3)
Quote:
You can sleave the pipe in the wall with PVC. This method works a lot better to be able to seal and/or firestop the pipes through the wall
Here ya lost me completly. Is this some kind of nutty local code that considers all stubouts to be a fire hazard? Not meaning to rain on your parade but perhaps I'm just dense because it's so early but I'm really trying to comprehend your answers. Regards, Tom
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Old Jul 27, 2009, 06:34 AM   #19  
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Just a note for jjustina.


In Home Depot yesterday, saw they had the Brasscraft slip on ,1/4 turn stop valves for about $8. Their version of Sharkbite, don't need the tool to remove.

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Old Jul 27, 2009, 10:05 AM   #20  
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Guys, am I correct in thinking that a practice to avoid with compression fittings is OVER tightening?

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jjustinia agrees: good point
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