Question
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Aug 23, 2009, 11:56 PM
| | New Member | | Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 15
| | | Gas line pressure testing for inspection Hello All
I had got a permit to extend my existing gas line to my kitchen so that I can change my stove from electric to gas. I got the plumber to get the new line to the kitchen. Once the new line was completed, I shutdown the values of the gas to other appliances in the house.
I got a new gas gauge to check if the gas line holds to 10PSI as per the code. When I plugged in the gauge to the new gas line and opened the main gas value, I checked with my plumber to see if there are any gas leaks using soap+water and there was no leaks on the new pipes.
But when I checked the gas gauge, it remained at 0 PSI. I pressed on the knob on the side of the gas gauge and I could smell the gas flowing into the gauge.
Can someone please tell me how to go about the gas pressure testing procedure that needs to be done for inspection?
I checked couple of discussions and I would like to confirm if my understanding is right.
1. Pump up the gauge to 10 PSI by injecting air via the small knob with the help of the hand pump (which we use for pumping air into the tires of the car or any other vehicle).
2. Once the pressure reaches 10PSI., close the knob and connect the gas gauge to the gas line (after shutting down the gas value)
3. Once the gauge is connected, open the gas value and check if the gauge holds steady at 10PSI for the next 10-15mins with the inspector onsite.
4. Check for leaks on the existing gas pipe for any leakages.
If these steps are right, how does the guage remain at 10PSI, after I pumped air in it? I mean how do we know that the gas flow is keeping the 10 PSI and not the air I had previously pumped in via the air hand pump to keep it at 10PSI in the first place?
Please let me know your comments and thoughts and let me know your suggesstions.
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Answers
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Sep 9, 2009, 11:14 AM
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#41
| | Ultra Member
Join Date: Jun 2008 Location: So. California
Posts: 4,148
| Are you sure you have to pay for it ? It should be covered by the cost of the permit. Maybe you should call Building Dept. and ask... |
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Sep 9, 2009, 01:14 PM
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#42
| | | Plumbing Expert
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Boston, Massachusetts
Posts: 6,011
| Hi all:
If it hasn't already been mentioned, don't forget to install the ANTI-TIP DEVICE. This anti-tip device as well as the shutoff and the correct flexi. connector are what the inspector looks for...
Glad you're all set!
MARK |
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Sep 17, 2009, 12:14 PM
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#43
| | New Member
Join Date: Aug 2009
Posts: 15
| Hi All
I finally got the mechanical inspection done and approved and I am all set. I would like to take this oppurtunity to thank all the experts and their invaluable guidance to helping me pull through and getting the final approval with this permit.
Thanks a lot and your help...
Bahomeowner. |
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Sep 17, 2009, 02:33 PM
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#44
| | Ultra Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 3,130
| Glad to hear things worked out. |
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Sep 17, 2009, 06:27 PM
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#45
| | Ultra Member
Join Date: Aug 2007 Location: California
Posts: 2,235
| Thanks for the info. |
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Oct 6, 2009, 06:30 PM
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#46
| | Junior Member
Join Date: Oct 2009
Posts: 1
| Hello all. I'm in a simlar situation as bahomeowner. I'm finishing my basement and I've installed a gas fireplace. Luckily there is a gas fireplace above it on the main floor and when it was installed the builder left one side of a tee valve capped off for a basement fireplace if desired. I've installed the fireplace with no issues and ready for the air pressure test.
Like an idiot, I tried to pressurize my gas pipes (from the new fireplace location) without first plugging the gas line at the meter (I simply turned off the intake valve). I sat there forever wondering why no air pressure reading would register on the air guage, while I'm sure air was simply spewing out of the regulator outside.
I have a pretty standard gas meter (no meter bar across the top). I plan to disconnect the outlet union, plug it, then conduct my test.
My questions:
Mark mentions using TWO wrenches when disconnecting the union fittings at the meter....why?
I assume the union fittings are compression? And they don't require pipe dope when reattaching?
The meter appears to still be working OK after blowing tons of air the opposite direction through it...I'll keep my fingers crossed!
Thanks!
DJ |
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Oct 6, 2009, 09:44 PM
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#47
| | Home Improvement & Construction Expert
Join Date: Jan 2008 Location: Alex, VA
Posts: 4,307
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Jan 24, 2010, 04:11 PM
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#48
| | New Member
Join Date: Jan 2010 Location: Colorado
Posts: 3
| Some very valuable information here.
I just had a gas line installed (professionally) and have a few questions.
BTW - It has already passed inspection.
How long does it need to hold the 10lbs of pressure. Is it acceptable to have 10lbs of pressure and over 3 days have it drop to 5lbs? This is what mine has done. The weather here in Colorado does fluctuate quite a bite if that matters. Has been quite cold at night and warms during the day. I am hesitant to install the gas stove and potentially have a leak....
Thanks in advance for your help.
Allen |
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Jan 24, 2010, 05:06 PM
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#49
| | | Home Repair & Remodeling Expert
Join Date: Dec 2006 Location: Wheaton, Illinois, USA
Posts: 16,563
| OK guys stop here, Allen has also figured out not to piggyback on a 4 page post of someone else. he has asked this question in a new post |
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Jan 24, 2010, 05:52 PM
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#50
| | Ultra Member
Join Date: Aug 2008
Posts: 3,130
| but i love piggyback rides. |
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