I had a leak in my cold water feed which happens to be galvanized pipe. It was between 2 floors and I cut out the affected section. I am going to replace the cut out section with either copper or CPVC. But how does one connect unthreaded galvanized pipe to the after mentioned pipes? I don't know if SharkBite couplings work with galvanized pipe. Are there other ways to accomplish this.
Removing the entire length of galvanized pipe is out of the question.

speedball1

To transition to copper you place a thread on the galvanized pipe and use a dielectric union,(see image). For PVC you put a thread on the galvanized and transition using a PVC female thread to slip coupling. Good luck, Tom

Milo Dolezal

Remove that cut piece of galv. pipe in the wall so you have male or female thread. Then, proceed as Tom suggested.

They do sell slip-over brass coupling that fits over unthreaded galv. pipe - but I would not recommended it for this application. We use those for emergencies on sprinkler systems and / or only on the outside.

mygirlsdad77

milo and speedball are right. find your nearest joints on each side of your cut. Unthread the pipe and use fittings suggested by speedball.

I would be the richest man alive if i could come up with a reliable connection fitting for unthreaded galv pipe.

KeepItSimpleStupid

mygirlsdad:

Your fitting is here. See page 7: Legend Valve


Na: Bill Gates did it with DOS...Dirty Operating System as in in Quick and Dirty.

MarcP

Sorry but that is virtually impossible. The pipe is literally buried in the wet wall to the extent I would nearly have to remove 80% of the walls to get access to achieve what you suggest. I can get close to the leak which is in a vertical run and in between 2 floors. I can cut the pipe above the leak and in the basement. Somebody suggested a Dresser compression piece. I wonder how tight this part can be to keep from leaking.

MarcP

It has been suggested that a 50 year old Galvanized cold water pipe is easier to unthread than a hot water pipe. TRUE?

ballengerb1

Not an answer but a question. I don't recall ever taking apart 50 year old galvanized often enough to note any difference between hot and cold. What logic did this person give for their hypthesis?

albinfla

Every one is different. It depends on the corrosiveness of the water. Take apart one joint and see how bad it is. Then, you'll know about the rest of them. Sometimes, they'll disintegrate in your wrench! Other times, they'll be almost pristine inside.

Milo Dolezal

The theory says that pipe carrying water at 125 F and higher will deteriorates twice as fast than pipe that carries cold water. Therefore, the assumption is that hot water pipe will be rusted in thread area making it twice as difficult to work with.

From my own experience: the extra strength you have to produce to unscrew hot water pipe versus cold water pipe is in most cases minimal and un-noticable to plumber.