Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask

    Frozen Sump Pump Discharge Pipe!

    Asked Feb 2, 2009, 02:30 PM 6 Answers
    I did a search before posting this question, but I only came across bits and pieces of the info I needed.

    Background:
    I live in NY and my neighborhood has a high water table. I installed a sump pump last year and ran the discharge pipe out through the foundation and into the sewer by the road. There were very heavy rains and lots of melt water in February of 2008. At that time, the sump pump was cycling on and off every 3 minutes. To keep a continuous downward pitch and still empty into the roadside sewer/drywell, I had to keep the entire discharge pipe above the frost line.

    Problem:
    The discharge pipe has frozen and I have to fix this before the water table rises again and my basement floods. Currently, the sump pit is dry but I don't want to bet on how long it will stay that way.

    • There is a proper check valve installed (see picture).
    • The discharge pipe is 1-1/2" PVC without any perforations.
    • The discharge pipe exits the house about 3-4 inches below ground level and is about 1-1/2 feet below ground where it ends in the sewer.
    • The discharge pipe is about 30 feet long.


    Should I be installing some sort of secondary pipe that branches off the main pipe inside the house to deal with future blockage?

    Should I be digging up my lawn and redoing the system? Perhaps a dry well below the frost line... but would the dry well be able to handle the volume of water I'm pumping?

    Attached Images Attached Images   
    Search this Thread
    Share |
    6 Answers
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,440, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #2

    Feb 2, 2009, 04:27 PM

    Hi Logan

    For starters In my area I'm not allowed to sump directly into the storm sewer. So be careful.

    To do it right Lower the pipe below frost line and then no worries.

    An axillary pipe is the other option

    Dry well WON'T handle that amount of discharge at all

    So that leaves to options. I go for the depth below frost and go extra on depth if you can.

    Logan for as quick as the sump pumps I would rig up a back up pump and set the kick off a little higher for extreme times and not to mention while sleeping the original pump burns.
    Many of times I do this on heavy areas. I look at it like a bilge pump in a boat and if it fails the boat sinks.

    Signed 21 Boat

    If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
    Helpful
    logan176's Avatar
    logan176 Posts: 325, Reputation: 6
    Full Member
     
    #3

    Feb 2, 2009, 04:39 PM

    I work for my town and they gave me permission to connect into the storm drain... sweet huh? Anyway, if I were to drop the discharge pipe below the frost line, wouldn't the pipe have to come back up above the frost line to enter the storm drain? The pit in my storm drain only goes down about 2 feet. That would probably leave a huge collection area for water to sit inside the pipe.

    As for an auxiliary pipe, how and where should I set it up in my run? I know it would have to be AFTER the check valve. Is there some kind of PVC valve I can buy to divert the water to the auxiliary pipe only when I want to, like during the winter months?


    I just came up with a few possible setups. I like options A or B but I threw C in there anyway. What do you think?
    Attached Images
     
    Helpful
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,440, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #4

    Feb 2, 2009, 06:09 PM

    Since the storm is only two feet how about installing a check valve which should be there and then a vent after the check valve right against the house and then the slope from there will always drain out to catch basin. If the pipe completely drains out then it can't get frozen unless it gets back water from drain. This way you could maintain the height there and it Will always drain out with in reason.
    To put a Y for added discharge a Ball valve could be used on the Y in the basement.
    I don't see a reason for 2 ball valves is the line becomes frozen that is the ball valve.
    The main concern on the primary side is it draining completely and vent to allow that so it won't freeze with left over water vacuumed in it
    So pump check valve Y ball valve on split and straight run on main after check and that vented right where it come on the outside of foundation.

    http://www.google.com/imgres?imgurl=...&ct=image&cd=1


    Signed 21 Boat

    If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
    Helpful
    logan176's Avatar
    logan176 Posts: 325, Reputation: 6
    Full Member
     
    #5

    Feb 2, 2009, 07:50 PM
    Let me see if I got it right...

    Once the discharge pipe leaves the sump pit there needs to be a check valve like I have in my picture. After the check valve I add a wye connector so that there is a main discharge that leads to the storm drain and an auxiliary discharge. On the axillary line I add ball valve to open if the main gets clogged.

    Going back to the main discharge... After the wye, the main discharge continues up and out through the foundation wall. Once the pipe is outside I should add a one way vent (see picture) so that the water can flow out to the storm drain better.

    Am I missing anything?
    Attached Images
      
    Helpful
    21boat's Avatar
    21boat Posts: 2,440, Reputation: 212
    Ultra Member
     
    #6

    Feb 2, 2009, 09:30 PM

    Looks good Logan I posted a site picture you may have looked up and the only diff is they show a trap outside the wall which you don't want The Vent is perfect. You could Y in the vent connection for another clean out just in case.

    Google Image Result for http://www.pumps-in-stock.com/images/typical_sump_pump_installation.gif

    If you decide to do a tandem sump pump in the future make sure the second pump runs now and again and not dies sitting in a pit.

    Signed 21 Boat

    If I Helped To Answer Your Question Please Rate My Answer
    Helpful (1)
    logan176's Avatar
    logan176 Posts: 325, Reputation: 6
    Full Member
     
    #7

    Feb 8, 2009, 09:04 AM
    Okay, I completed half the job so far. It's still a little cold outside and there's still snow on the ground so I won't be putting in the outside vent for a few more weeks. I wyed off the main and added the ball valve. Then at the top I temporarily attached a black plastic hose.

    Two More Questions:

    1: I'm curious about something. I know you said to put in only one ball valve because the ice would act the other ball valve. However, in this setup, if there is an ice blockage in the main line and more water is pumped in, then the entire line out to the street would be completely filled with water. If that water also froze, isn't there a good chance that the large volume of ice would crack the pvc pipe?

    2: Also, when I connected the pvc pieces together I have been using the two products shown in the picture. First the cleaner, then the glue. I do remember reading that pvc needs a primer. Is the cleaner acting as the primer? I've used this combo in the past and I've never had a problem yet.
    Attached Images
      
    Helpful

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Thread Tools Search this Thread
Search this Thread:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Need an air gap for sump pump discharge [ 6 Answers ]

My sump pump drainage system was not set up correctly. The 1 1/2 inch PVC pipe runs outside the house, into the ground, and is connected to the storm sewer. I understand it is supposed to drain into a larger pipe (3 or 4 inches) which would allow an air space and more room. Since there is no...

Drain Flies from pipe in Sump Pump Area [ 4 Answers ]

We've been in our home for two years now. For the first year, we were fine, but this year, we've had record rainfall and billions of drain flies since late February. We didn't know where they were coming from at first, but now we know where... the pipe where the sump pump is located. See attached...

Length of Sump Pump exhause hose/pipe [ 2 Answers ]

Sump Pump hose length - how long of a hose/pipe can I safely connect to my sump pump without risk of damage or wearing it out? My current setup is that the pump, pumps up a PVC pipe (9') then out to the exterior which is 15', from the exterior I have about 30' of PVS which is sloped, then about...

Washer discharge into sump pump [ 2 Answers ]

Hello, I just moved into a new old house and I am experiencing problems with my washing machine that are related to an expected plumbing issue. The issue is that my washing machine is causing my clothes to smell very damp and musty despite the fact that they were washed and dried. I believe that...

Tieing in a backup sump pump to existing copper discharge pipe [ 3 Answers ]

Does anyone know if I can tie in a backup sump pump into an existing copper discharge pipe of 1.5 inches. The back up pump comes with a "y" connector made of PVC. How do I connect the PVC connector into the copper discharge pipe? Thanks.


View more questions Search