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I have had the usual symptomatic water overflow out of the dishwasher air gap on the top of my sink countertop. After replacing the countertop with granite and relocating the air gap hole, I replaced the hose from the air gap to the disposal and insured there was no blockage in the disposal and new hose. Yet I have so much water pressure coming from the dishwasher that it shoots out of the air gap vent. I confirm the water is draining into the disposal from the air gap vent but it seems there is so much water or the pressure is so great the system can't handle the amount of water being discharged and backs up into the air gap. I've even looped the extra amount of hose from the dishwasher to the air gap above the disposal drain height to see if that would solve this. It did seem to take some of the pressure off of the water coming out of the air gap but it still spews out. After searching and reading all the posts regarding this usually common issue, I'm at a loss. Anyone have any ideas?
If a doit-yourselfer has a stopped up sink and his friend tells him to fill up the disposal side of the sink with water and stop up the other side of the sink and then turn on the disposal, Where do you suppose the water is going to go, with all of the contaminates that have collected in the disposal and the hose leading from the dishwasher.
I have a confession to make. I can confirm empirically where it goes.
My dishwasher has an air gap.
First, it removes the stopper from the other sink. With a rather impressive force, really. Second, when you get annoyed and hold down the stopper, it unclogs the drain.
At no point does it spew from the air trap. And nor should it — the dishwasher drain inlet is on the suction side (e.g., the same side of the disposal as the sink).
I have a confession to make. I can confirm empirically where it goes.
My dishwasher has an air gap.
First, it removes the stopper from the other sink. With a rather impressive force, really. Second, when you get annoyed and hold down the stopper, it unclogs the drain.
At no point does it spew from the air trap. And nor should it — the dishwasher drain inlet is on the suction side (e.g., the same side of the disposal as the sink).
Take another look at a counter top air gap set up,(see image). When it's loaded with water the table of the disposal acts like a centrifugal pump. water, like electricity. takes the path of least resistance. Perhaps your clogs are minor ones, with no back pressure resistance, but with most clogs that block a drain the disposal will pump back up to the countertop and alll over your floor. If you go back on our earlier counter air gap complaints you will see that discharging all over the couter top is the main complaint. This is why, in the Tampa Bay Area, that we only use a high loop air gap. In all the five years this site has been up we've never had the first complaint about a high loop air gap going bad. So that would put letmetellu,
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Originally Posted by letmetellu, If a doit-yourselfer has a stopped up sink and his friend tells him to fill up the disposal side of the sink with water and stop up the other side of the sink and then turn on the disposal, Where do you suppose the water is going to go, with all of the contaminates that have collected in the disposal and the hose leading from the dishwasher. That's right! Out the air gap!
correct and you in error.
But we thank you for sharing you interesting tail. Cheers, Tom
Air gaps are strictly enforced by plumbing inspectors in So.California. No inspection will pass unless air gap is installed and fully functional.
Here, dishwashers drain into garbage disposer through side outlet. In side inlet of your g/d used to be a knockout plug that your plumber had to remove in order to allow d/w water to enter g/d. Sometimes happens that portion of that plug failed to disengage completely and is now preventing free flow. Do quick inspection for me: Unplug g/d. (unplug g/d). Put your finger inside your g/d and found that opening where d/w water enters g/d. Stick your finger inside. Feel if it is clear. If not, remove rest of the plug.
Daveskee
Are you still around and did you ever get your problem resolved? I recognize that you have replace the air gap but there is something that has bothered me since your original post.
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Originally Posted by daveskee
There seems to be to much pressure. So much so that if I take off the metal cover on the air gap, the water shoots up about 8-10" out of the top of the air gap.
Can I take that statement literally?
After removing the chrome cover there should be a dome shaped top or cover over the inlet pipe that directs the water back down toward the drain hose. This would be part of the air gap itself but can be removed. If I take your statement literally, meaning that the water shoots up in the air 8-10, that would mean that the domed top of the air gap would have to be missing. If you mean that the water just shouts out around the air gap thats something else but to shoot UP the top of the air gap has to be missing.
Daveskee
Are you still around and did you ever get your problem resolved? I recognize that you have replace the air gap but there is something that has bothered me since your original post.
Can I take that statement literally?
After removing the chrome cover there should be a dome shaped top or cover over the inlet pipe that directs the water back down toward the drain hose. This would be part of the air gap itself but can be removed. If I take your statement literally, meaning that the water shoots up in the air 8-10, that would mean that the domed top of the air gap would have to be missing. If you mean that the water just shouts out around the air gap thats something else but to shoot UP the top of the air gap has to be missing.
I think that daveskee meant that if he takes off the strictly cosmetic chrome cover off of his air gap, then removes the cap that is supposed to seal off the air gap and direct the flow of water down towards the drain, he gets the shot of water 8'-10' high, and that if he takes off the chrome cover and leaves the cap in place, he gets the flood of water over his countertop, just like I did.
Well, I followed speedball1's advice. I got rid of the air gap and ran a high loop. The original installers left enough slack in the dishwasher drain hose that I could run the hose just under the countertop. I used an adhesive anchor and a plastic tie-wrap to hold the hose in place under the countertop, and since the original metal trap broke while I was dealing with all of it, I replaced it with a plastic trap that included an internal baffle that directs the hot, detergent-laden, high-pressure discharge from the dishwasher straight down the j-trap, which I believe helps keep it clear. Filled the hole in the sink surround with a soap dispenser and have had no problems at all with the dishwasher or sink drain.
I found this link in California city code web site,I am not that experens in like Tom,Bob and Milo, I am just here to learn from you guys please don't get mad if post some time, Thanks to All.
Afaroo: Thanks for posting the Inspectors Blog link. I see, the responses vary. It confirms that Plumbing Codes are differ from State to State. Inspector from CA (Santa Clarita) confirmed that Air Gap is required in my area. That's why it is important that people publish their location so they can get more accurate answer to their plumbing problem.
Well, I followed speedball1's advice. I got rid of the air gap and ran a high loop. The original installers left enough slack in the dishwasher drain hose that I could run the hose just under the countertop. Filled the hole in the sink surround with a soap dispenser and have had no problems at all with the dishwasher or sink drain.
I REST MY CASE!! Natural applications, such as a high loop or a vent through the roof will out last, will give less problems and will give you less service calls then mechanical applications such as a counter top air gap or a Air Admittance Valve. This is exactly what I've been saying since day one. regards, Tom
I will be installing a granite countertop with an under the countertop sink. Thus, if water comes out of the air gap it will flow on the countertop and in my case will flow off the granite that abuts my pass through to the dining room and on to my wood floors. So I have two questions: 1) Are there air gaps that have a "spout" that will direct the water to the sink?; 2) Also if I do not use the air gap and place my dishwasher drain hose looped high can I also place a check valve in the hose to prevent any water going back into my dishwasher? Our city code requires a air gap even if there is a built in air gap in the dishwasher.
We have used our dishwasher since 1998 without a problem. We also rinse our dishes prior to placing in the dishwasher.
1) Are there air gaps that have a "spout" that will direct the water to the sink?;
Nope!!
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2) Also if I do not use the air gap and place my dishwasher drain hose looped high can I also place a check valve in the hose to prevent any water going back into my dishwasher?
Sure can! You do realize that the dishwasher has a sump that collects the liquid left in the hose when the pump shuts down whether you have a high loop or a counter top air gap don't you? But if you wish to install a check valve so it doesn't drain back into the sump that's cool too. Good luck, Tom
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