I have a water softener with a brass valve that the copper water pipe connects to. The copper pipe has a hole in it and needs replaceing. I am trying to remove the pipe from the brass valve but can't get it to loosen. I am using a common small propane bottle with nozzle. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I bet you see some steam coming out o that hole, its likely that there is some waterpresent in the valve and thatprevents unsoldering. Try to open the manifold to allow water to drain.

Hi Mziggyjax...

First, since you have to replace the pipe with hole in it anyway I recommend that you simply cut the pipe a few inches in front of the valve and then try to heat the joint up and remove the pipe from valve. You must sand the pipe and flux the pipe before trying to remove from old valve... ;)

Then should just need a coupling, some type L copper tubing (home depot sells in 2 foot lengths), lead-free solder, flux, fluxbrush and a rag (and goggles) to reconnect all. Be sure to rid pipes of all water and open all faucets connected to this line to be sure pressure doesn't build up when soldering.

I also suggest that you step it up by purchasing a MAPPGASS cylinder and torch for about $30.00 at home depot as this burns hotter and makes for easier joining of copper fittings/pipe.

Good luck...

MARK

Mark, could you clarify why you want to flux before removing from the valve?

Hi Bob... here's how I do it...

If I'm going to heat an old joint that I want to reuse I will clean/sandpaper it on outside of pipe/fitting... then flux it... then heat pipe and remove it easily. Then I wipe fitting and install pipe that I already had cut, cleaned and fluxed and slip that in while pipe is still very hot and then heat pipe a bit, reheat joint a bit and solder joint up.

By precleaning and fluxing I have a much better chance of making the switch out without having to mess with fitting cooling down... wiping, cleaning, etc...

Never failed me when trying to reuse an old fitting.

Thanks for pointing this out so I could make clearer for Mziggyjax!

Mark and Bob, thanks for your help. I did make sure I had all the water out of the valve and removed all the seals before I started so I wouldn't damage them from the heat. The pipe is a 90deg. Union so it's not very long. I have borrowed a co-workers map gas/O2 rig he says I need to get it hotter because the brass is absorbing all the heat. I'm a little hesitant to use the O2. I don't want to melt anything, as I remember from my high school welding class (a long time ago) we used acetylene and O2 to weld and cut with. Co-worked also said I need to use a higher content of silver for soldering to brass. What silver content do I use? Thanks again for your help,
Matt

You should be fine without the oxygen.

Mziggyjax...

I think that the welding torch is way overkill here... but if you are going to do it then you'll have to add some oxygen or all you'll get from the acetylene will be a big, messy orange flame..? Black soot will go everywhere without O2, and with O2 added to acetylene you could burn the fitting..?

I recommend purchasing the mapp gas and getting some lead-free solder and then follow the instructions I posted earlier.

As long as this is a soldered joint (not brazed.. right?)then that is all you should really need to do. Otherwise, cut old valve out and start with new valve!

Good luck...

MARK

Mark:

Your sleeping. It's MAPP/O2 not aceteylene/O2. You should be able to use the MAPP without the O2 present.

Ron, I've never even heard of a mapp gas and O2 setup... is this new? If that is the case then mziggyjax should be all set!

I read it fine... just was sure it was a mistake on their part!

Thanks...

Here is poor man's variety. OX2550KC TORCH KIT BRAZE/WELD OXYGEN/MAPP

Since MAPP is safer than acetelyne it has replaced Oxy/Acetyelene in many cases. Oxy/map has been around for 10-15 years.

You can also do Oxy/Propane and also Oxy/Hydrogen. I've used them all.