Check out some similar questions!

sthacker · Dec 12, 2005, 10:01 AM

R & R commodes several times and already know all the tricks and pitfalls, but today I hit a new one. When I took up the commode to see why it rocks, the floor flange came too!! The floor is concrete, the closet bend seems to have a flair on the end, and the brass (?) flange is warped. I have no idea how the flange connects to the closet bend. Seems many years ago a plumber told me this was a 'wiped lead joint'. I don't want to even try that.
Is there a flange that I can screw to a concrete floor that will go over the flaired end and clamp down somehow? SET

speedball1 · Dec 12, 2005, 10:47 AM

You have a lead closet bend that was flared out over the closet flange. Don't disturb the lead stub up and you now have several options to replace the flange. The flange should have holes as well as the slots for the closet bolts. Set the flange where it should mount and mark the holes. You may then take a 1/4" masonry bit and drill holes in the cement. Now purchase a small box of 1/4" plastic inserts and screws and screw the flqnge to the floor. Another way would be to use cement screws called TapCons.
If you can flare the lip over the flange so much the better but don't tear up anything attempting it. When you reset the toilet use a wax ring with a funnel for added insurance. Don't lose sight of the fact that all a closet flange does is secure the toilet bowl to the floor. Good luck and let me know how you make out. Tom

sthacker · Dec 12, 2005, 02:49 PM

Thanks for your quick reply. Because of time constraints we opted to take the easy out and called in a plumber. He followed your recommendation almost to the letter. He said the flange fastened to the lead pipe would hold the bowl fine, but sensing my doubt, hurried to add that he could screw it to the floor as well. He tinned the flange, drilled holes for anchors, put in the new flange, soldered the flange to the lead pipe, screwed the flange to the anchors, and we have a good solid foundation now. Then he reset the bowl and put the tank back in place. He put a wedge under the front of the bowl as the 'new' tile floor was a bit off. He was on site just one hour and 15 minutes. We don't have a bill yet, but it will be well worth the cost, I'm sure. My son and I are both very handy and could have done this but it would have taken the better part of a day, with at least two trips to Home Depot and probably some new tools that would have to sit until another job just like this came up. We like to do this sort of work, but this is one time when it was probably cheaper and much more quick to just hire a pro and 'get er done'!