My husband and I are in the process of changing out a vanity in our guest bathroom and I have a few questions. We removed the old vanity and had to cut the old p-trap off with a hack saw. We are replacing with an open vanity so now the pipes will be exposed. I want to tile half way up the wall, but before I do that we need to figure out the plumbing for our new vanity. As far as installing a new p trap how do I make the connection to the waste line (do I need some sort of adapter)? How far do I need to cut back the pvc pipe from the wall and how do I cover this when we install a brass p-trap? Also the old p-trap had the dimensions listed as 1 1/2" on it but when I have read up it said that bathrooms use 1 1/4". Sorry we are new at home improvements.

Could you upload a photo of the existing rough-in?

Also, are you using a typical 1-1/4 chromed brass p-trap -- Or are you thinking of using a chromed bottle trap?

To add to Growlers post her are the different types of traps. Your choice! Regards, Tom

We were planning on using a typical chromed brass p-trap after I have read that bottle traps are not always a good choice. I will post a picture when I get home from work this afternoon.

Hi Soniebee. You will need a PVC desanco fitting... I recommend that you pipe this with an 1-1/2" tubular p-trap (with an 1/12" x 1-1/4" nut/washer to go to the drain piping from the sink).

PVC desanco looks like my pic (move head left and right of pic. and it shows up better!!).

The big issue here is that you need to cut the pvc pipe so that it is only 3/4" off the finished wall... must be nice straight cut here... and then can prime/cement that desanco on and install the tubular trap. YOU will definitely need a DEEP 1-1/2" tubular escutcheon/box flange to cover the pvc desanco fitting... and it still may not cover completely (see pic.)

So... 1-1/2" tubular trap, 1-1/2" pvc desanco fitting, pint of pvc primer, pint of pvc cement, make sure tubular trap comes with 1) 1-1/2" x 1-1/4" chrome nut and washer... AND check for the deep box flange... tubular trap comes with a flat escutcheon... you need the deep one.

That should do it for you. But wait until growler and speedball check in... may have another suggestion as well. Take care.

PS... the pictures are not to scale... the box flange goes over desanco so is obviously bigger!

Attached Images

  

Ok here is what was there before: original to house and what we are left with

Attached Images

   

OH.. hey... OUCH!

That is not going to work well with a tubular p-trap... or any other p-trap with finshed chrome. Sorry.

Looking at that set up (pics. Are so great)... I would stick with PVC pipe all the way. Seems, somehow, that someone thinks the pipe on right acts as a vent for the sink. It does in a way.. but is unorthodox and vent is inline improperly.

Anyway. You are back to doing something very similar to the pVC picture you posted... OR you need to open up the wall and repipe this correctly.

See the picture I attached... you want to ignore the septic and the roof line, but just note that to repipe so you get the elegant finish with pedastal that I think you are looking for you need to open wall and install the vent (pipe on right in your picture) off the tee fitting as pictured. Then you can install a tubular trap or a new england style trap (made for PVC to chrome finish... see pic.#2).

You will also want to change out your shutoffs... can stay with compression type if you want, but will need to shorten pipes and use new 1/2" copper pipe size, chrome F&C plates to cover holes. Get back to me or the others in this post if you decide to stay with pedastal... OK?

OR... *frown*.. switch back to vanity and hide the mess... *frown*.. sorry, but that is how I see it. Change piping or change pedastal back to vanity!

Get in touch, let us know what you are thinking.


.

Attached Images

  

If I can add 2 cents in here, what Mark is saying is not nearly as bad as it sounds. Cutting out and repairing the drywall is not that difficult and well worth the effort to have it you way. Its mostly PVC and glue but that blue handled valve may go to an outside faucet and you may need to replace that with a frost proof faucet in order to get rid of that blue handled stop valve.

Eek OK. Well I have already purchased the vanity and doubt I can return it at this point so I guess we will cut the drywall and see what is behind it. If we feel we are over our head, any idea how long this would take a professional to do?

Hi sonibee.

It is multi phase job:

Plumber opens walls (cuts one piece sheetrock from stud to stud if possible) and makes repairs/relocates pipes as needed.. then, hopefully he puts back sheetrock in one piece and it gets taped/patched easily. Then a little sanding and then paint.

So... answer/cost... depends on what parts of opening/closing/patching/sanding/painting you will be doing.

The opening of wall and change of plumbing should not take more than a few hours plus material costs (including a trip to supply house).

Then after all painted, the pedestal needs to be installed... that can be done in a few ways... I still like my PVC to chrome trap (see pic #2 last post)... but tubular traps are fine, too. Also need to finish the water trim over to new chrome. Will you be doing finish?

Let us know.. ok?

AND YOU MEANT PEDASTAL IN YOUR LAST POST... RIGHT? THIS IS FOR A PEDASTAL JOB... RIGHT?

It is an open vanity, with no doors. So not quite a pedestal, but the pipes will be exposed.