At Ask Me Help Desk you can ask questions in any topic and have them
answered for free by our experts. To ask questions or participate in
answering them you must register for a free account. By registering you
will be able to:
Get free answers from experts in any of our 300+
topics.
The guy who demo'd my bathroom, installed cement board, then tile has done some things that I question -
He did not caulk the cement board seams before putting up tile
He did not fill new tub to test it before tiling. By the time the plumber came half of the tile was on the wall so there was no "testing" done. The drain did not hold water, the ceiling below is damp, as well as the top half of the wall in room below. Paint is cracking and feels spongy. I am having plumber come by to adjust drain and tell me what to do about ceiling and walls. Do I need to open up asap and replace asap so as not to get mold? (The main reason for the demo in the first place, but not the same cause of mold.)
The tile work is level, he says, but not straight vertically especially, and the grout lines are inconsistent in width. He says the walls were not plumb, but the tile is level. He did not run any kind of string while tiling nor use chalk, etc., nor lay out the tile beforehand for either floor or tub surround.
He grouted all the corners as well as the line where the first row of tiles meets the tub. Grout only.
Do I put clear caulk over the grout? Leave it alone - dig it out?
There are many reasons why I am not happy but for now I am just trying to ensure that I don't have problems down the line.
I always thought caulk goes in the corners and tubline - but there is grout there now.
this is a bathroom and tub/shower that is heavily used by my four children.
Milo...you are a retard and you just keep proving it here...
How is that you missed this MILO?? I tried only to present the manufacturer's recommendations and you made a big deal including discounting these images I showed you the page number and the image number to find...??
Let everyone else decide....does this look like GROUT or CAULKING SEALANT...???
These images are available at the link above just to prove that Milo's just hurting this post....not helping anyone!...
Mark, I think if there is a retard in this Forum - so it is you. Nowhere in the enclosed instructions - that you had me to read twice - does manufacturer calls for "...flexible sealant..." or "...caulk..." as you try to make everybody here to believe. Period. You are wrong - and at the same time, not enough a man to admit it calling people derogatory names in the process.
It is you who incorrectly interprets "sealant" as "flexible caulk" or "caulk"....
No need to apologize for your ignorance - you are already forgiven.
Kim...sorry to hijack this post...never intended too! The manufacturer, and the other professionals here (except Milo) recommend using flexible sealant (silicone, mildew-resistant caulking, etc...).
I think it best for you to call American Standard and check with them on this issue! I also think it is a good idea for Milo to call, too!
:Listening to you guys just makes me certain that I made the right choice to stay the hell outta remodels and stick with new construction and warrenty repair.\
Now, to me. if the tub's plastic and will flex it's only good sense to use a caulk that won't crack. In most of our condos, except the pricey ones out on the keys and beach, we used steel tubs. Marks posting manufactures directions. Mi;lo, do you have a issue with those directions? Are installations so different from one coast to another? Since, clearly there can no meeting of the minds here this exchange should end now. You are both good plumbers and I value your opinions bet let's not lose track of why we're here and i don't see the asker getting much out of this.
Regards, tom
Ok guys -
the plumber came. Took out a piece of the ceiling below which was pretty dry at this point ( a week later) but sure enough he found a leak. Something about the gasket installation not quite right....plus the putty. Seem's okay now - but we're still not using the tub/shower. Not feeling at all confident about the caulk/grout issue (not that I want to get that debate started again!) with daily, multiple use, and looking into the possibility of redoing the whole thing. Not sure I can quite wrap my head around that yet, but it is a thought.
I'm grateful for all the valuable input - K
Ok guys -
the plumber came. Took out a piece of the ceiling below which was pretty dry at this point ( a week later) but sure enough he found a leak. Something about the gasket installation not quite right....plus the putty.
Sounds like the drain shoe wasn't properly puttied and tightened -- And it likely leaked at the overflow as well.
All of these are rookie mistakes that can be discovered and corrected by filling the tub up past the overflow and visually inspected *before* the wallboard goes up.
Quote:
Seem's okay now - but we're still not using the tub/shower. Not feeling at all confident about the caulk/grout issue (not that I want to get that debate started again!) with daily, multiple use, and looking into the possibility of redoing the whole thing. Not sure I can quite wrap my head around that yet, but it is a thought.
I'm grateful for all the valuable input - K
My gut tells me the tile job is likely water tight and would be servicable -- A quick way to tell would be to run the shower for 30 minutes while the ceiling down below is still open and visually check for leaks.
As for the grout/caulk issue at the tub tile transition, a person with a very steady hand and a grout saw (definitely not your tilesetter) could remove the grout and caulk the joint with a good quality elastomeric caulk.
To me, the larger issue is the visual aspect -- If it were me, I'd rip the tile and wallboard out to the bare studs and start all over from scratch with a competent tilesetter who will take the time to furr the walls out with butt strips to correct any deficiencies in the framing.
Linear Mode
