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The guy who demo'd my bathroom, installed cement board, then tile has done some things that I question -
He did not caulk the cement board seams before putting up tile
He did not fill new tub to test it before tiling. By the time the plumber came half of the tile was on the wall so there was no "testing" done. The drain did not hold water, the ceiling below is damp, as well as the top half of the wall in room below. Paint is cracking and feels spongy. I am having plumber come by to adjust drain and tell me what to do about ceiling and walls. Do I need to open up asap and replace asap so as not to get mold? (The main reason for the demo in the first place, but not the same cause of mold.)
The tile work is level, he says, but not straight vertically especially, and the grout lines are inconsistent in width. He says the walls were not plumb, but the tile is level. He did not run any kind of string while tiling nor use chalk, etc., nor lay out the tile beforehand for either floor or tub surround.
He grouted all the corners as well as the line where the first row of tiles meets the tub. Grout only.
Do I put clear caulk over the grout? Leave it alone - dig it out?
There are many reasons why I am not happy but for now I am just trying to ensure that I don't have problems down the line.
I always thought caulk goes in the corners and tubline - but there is grout there now.
this is a bathroom and tub/shower that is heavily used by my four children.
I PM'd a few of the Tilesetters I have worked with over the years last night, and they said that the edge between the tub and the bottom course of tile should be caulked with an elastomeric caulk -- In most cases they buy a tube of color matched sanded caulk when they buy their grout for the job.
The reason being that a grouted joint will crack as the tub flexes, particularly composite tubs like the Americast.
Mark, tell your tile men to fill up the acrylic tub before they apply fortified grout. Drain water from tub after grout cures and is sealed.
As I found out from my experience, most of tile setters are too cheap to spend extra $30.00 for acrylic ad-mix and use clean water to mix grout with instead. Also, without filled tub during grouting - crack will develop later on.
And on personal note: do not buy / install tubs that flex. You setting yourself up for trouble.
Milo...you keep trying to make this about me and I have tried to point out the facts three times now....
I will state the simple fact one last time...THE MANUFACTURER OF THIS TUB REQUIRES THAT A FLEXIBLE SEALANT BE INSTALLED BETWEEN THE TILE AND/OR THE TUB SURROUND.
Milo and Mark, if you two can't play nice, you're both going in time out
Grouting changes in plane is a regional difference, mostly done in California where mudwork is prevailing and the tile assemblies act as one monolithic structure vs. what you see elsewhere with cement board wall section meeting and acting independent of the adjoining cement board wall section.
Grouting along the tub as Milo suggested is the same as the caulk should be applied, the difference being that when the water is drained, the caulk compresses but when the water is drained and the tub/wall joint has been grouted, the compressive strength of the grout keeps the tub ledge pushed down as it was when filled with water. However, the grout is by no means remaining sealed to that tub and therefore is not creating a water tight seal against the tub.
The correct answer is that according to industry guidelines ANSI A108.1 Paragraph 3.7.2, which is part of where requirement of movement joints are covered, includes "terminations of tilework where it would abut restraining or dissimilar surfaces" and therefor the joint should be caulked, not grouted.
It's also detailed in TCNA method EJ-171 to give the detail on how they are to be constructed, minumum placements, minimum sizes, etc.
FYI...except in very limited uses, the mixing of an acrylic or latex additive in place of clean water with an already modifed grout or thinset makes for a weaker grout or thinset as there is not enough water content to properly hydrate the portland cement content of the thinset or grout nor enough water to re-emulsify the spray dried polymers within the bag of thinset or grout.
Now if I may, can I invite my plumber along and the 3 of you can debate his pvc liners, Mark's copper pans, and Milo's tar pit pans. Gotta love those regional variations.
Do you have another set of instructions to prove it ? Just cut and paste the important part - don't let me read the whole thing again like an apprentice.
Jesus!! The images are posted at the site and clearly show the ADHESIVE or sealants. Really, now...A RETARD could understand the links and the images I showed you!!!!
I'll let others decide here since you seem to want to play games!!
All others please go to the links provided by me at POST #24...exactly as posted showing you all the images and tell us what you think. Do you see grout in ALL the images or do you see sealants and adhesives...???
Never mind, once again Milo...you are the only one advocating GROUT here..really, you need to grow up a bit huh...? I thought you were just playin'...now I can see you are just being a JERK!
Mark, no matter how big letters you use to write your responses, and how bold you make them - you are not correct. Let me know when you calm down. I don't really feel like dealing with emotional person and be called names on this beautiful , sunny, afternoon. If you wanna discuss it, let me know when you are ready. In the meantime, Mark, there is nothing wrong with being wrong...!
Gotta love those regional variations.
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