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soldering a floor supply valve when the chrome covers the pipe.
Hi there
My bathroom water supply to the sink comes through the floor. I would like to replace it with a chrome plated straight valve. The chrome pipe slides over the copper pipe, which leaves the "solder seam" on the Up side (with respect to gravity) My question is: How to I ensure that the solder penetrates everywhere it's supposed to go -- won't it just drip down the pipe and not fill the seam? Should I use the kind of solder that is already mixed with flux, and just paint it on and heat? Any help and advice would be greatly appreciated!
If I interpret you question correctly you want to know how to solder the bottom joint of the valve and the pipe. In other words how do you make the solder run up hill? Solder the top joint first if there is one, then solder the bottom joint. Just heat the valve and the heat will draw the solder up into the joint. Immediately wipe with wet cloth.
"I would like to replace it with a chrome plated straight valve" this part I understand but don't understand about a chrome pipe sliding over another pipe That is not how this is done. I think you mean you what a chrome valve and a chrome pipe and currently have neither. I would cut the supply lines at the floor or below if I can get to them. Install a compression to pipe thread fitting, chrome if you want. Now go threaded chrome pipe to your chrome valve and out the top side to your sink.
Does the valve you want to solder look like my pic (except yours would be straight)?
If so, then need to really clean the inside of the extension 2 inches deep with a 1/2" cleaning brush, then use sandcloth to de-chrome the very end of shutoff...between inside and outside...at end of extension. Then add bell flange on...then flux and sandcloth pipe and then flux shutoff (2 inches deep)...then install over pipe (will push/bunch the flux up...that is ok)..then give a slight crimp to hold in place (I crimp shutoff off center and then rotate into place to set strong and then just solder so heat pulls the solder up and into the shutoff).
Soldering is all about the prep. and the heat. Here, you heat the end of shutoff good, then when addind solder you have heat directed high so solder will pull into the shutoff. Don't be afraid of a few drips..solder will suck in well if you do all this.
This type shutoff discolors abit when soldering and can BURN if heat too hot..so just keep flame at medium and go for it...let me know if this is right..ok??
If this helped please RATE THIS ANSWER...Thank you...MARK
Mark -- Yes, it is a straight chrome extension. What I meant is that is slides into the pipe for an inch or so (Is that normal?) I replaced the old lines because they looked tentative and had been bent into place (I guess the previous owner/plumber couldn't be bothered with elbows) I used new 1/2" copper both hot and cold, running from the basement up through the floor using sharkbite connections (T, elbow, and couplers). I didn't want to be listening for every drip noise at night and worrying that my solder job will fail at any time.
Right now they are capped. I've read that you put white bread in the line to absorb any water that may remain after draining the lines --is that right? Would you mind a couple more questions?
What do you think of the combination flux/solder product?
Once I heat up the pipe(s) ..and solder begins to flow --what do I do if the solder stops flowing before finishing? I'm worried that I will over-heat the pipe and boil away all the flux --or underheat it and end up with a spotty job. Then panic and melt solder everywhere. Can you give me an approximation of how long you heat the pipe ? --and how do I know it's a solid connection...and lastly --what do you mean by "crimp" the pipe.
I'm sorry for all questions -- there is just some sort of mental block, panic feeling I get when it comes to plumbing --
it is a straight chrome extension. What I meant is that is slides into the pipe for an inch or so
Am i missing something something here?? Are you attempting to solder chrome? Chrome don't solder. If you have a chrome pipe that slides into a copper pipoe then the solder won't take unless you remove the chrome dowm to t6he brass brfore you even fire up the torch. The secret of soldering is cleaning, fluxing and heat.
First remove the chrome finish down to the brass a inch on either side of where you'll be solderi8ng. I take a file or hacksaw blade to remove the chrome. The brass don't hane to be clean and shiny but enough brass has to show for vthe solder to flo0w all the way around.
Take a cleaning brush shine the inside of the pipe the chrome piece will fit into.
Now paint boththe inside of the pipe and the outside of the brass that you cleaned up with NoCorrode Solder paste or a acid based paste and join the pipes.
Fire up the torch using a medium tip and apply heat to the the BOTTOM of the largest fitting while holding the tip of your solder on TOP.
When the solder begins to melt on top run the tip of the solder around the joint. Capillary action will suck the solder into the joint as you run the solder around the joint. Run the solder around several times and let it set it. You have just completed your solder job. Hope this helps and thank you for rating my reply. Tom
Hey, if you aren't comfortable with soldering...there are shutoffs that can be installed without soldering. They are not quite as elegant as the shutoffs I showed you earlier, but they are nice, shiny chrome...
You could use 5/8" O.D. compression x 3/8" O.D. compression stops with bell flanges (as in previous picture) or just old fashioned 1/2" copper chrome split rings...see pic.below.
Some people do not like them...I was afraid of them at first, too (and I do solder most of mine) BUT these work reliably if installed as instructed (PLUS A FULL TURN... ). I have installed 100's and have never gotten a call back...so you decide....solder or solderless??
Karl, razor raises good point. There are washer type (older style) and ball valve type (newer-washerless) shutoffs. Each type has its place. The ball valve type OR the washer type is fine in this case. I can make an argument for both...
I am glad point was raised here though instead of at the home supply store...huh Razor?? Thanks!!
). I have installed 100's and have never gotten a call back...so you decide....solder or solderless?? 
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