Ask Experts Questions for FREE Help !
Ask
    grumpjoy's Avatar
    grumpjoy Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Aug 22, 2010, 05:02 AM
    Can anything be used to soften very old pipe dope on brass pipe fittings?
    Brass water valve needs to be replaced, it's in a very tight location to afford a large wrench good grip and leverage. It is cracked -probably done by me trying to muscle it out. So do I have to cut it out?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #2

    Aug 22, 2010, 05:33 AM

    Pipe dope is a lubricant. Granted it does harden some over time but can be removed with wire brush or sand paper. It would not prevent removal of the valve. Sure this wasn't a soldered valve?

    Tell us more about what you are doing.
    grumpjoy's Avatar
    grumpjoy Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Aug 22, 2010, 05:46 AM

    It's all threaded pipe in there under the sink. The shut off was leaking, mostly when I had to close it. I repacked the nut and changed the washer; all would've been hunky-dory but I must've cracked the valve when struggling to remove the stem now it has to be replaced and I can't budge it
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #4

    Aug 22, 2010, 05:56 AM

    You should be able to remove it using 2 wrenches. If that won't work then take a torch and heat the end of the valve until it gets reddish... then remove with the wrenches. The extreme heat causes the metal to expand and should make the valve easier to remove.

    Let us know how you make out... OK?

    Mark
    grumpjoy's Avatar
    grumpjoy Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #5

    Aug 22, 2010, 06:02 AM

    I didn't mention this is a valve that is in the middle of the pipe run, it controls the water for the sink and the bathtub. Does that change your recommendation?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #6

    Aug 22, 2010, 06:11 AM

    Given that info. you need to cut the valve/pipe out to the nearest fitting and then install a new valve with brass nipples and a union.

    When cutting the pipe be sure not to vibrate things too much or you could cause a leak at a further joint and really make this job grow!
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #7

    Aug 22, 2010, 06:42 AM

    Might want to check the bonnet nut or packing nut. You may have over tighten that and split the nut. I don't see how you could have cracked the valve itself. If so, and you can find a replacement (new valve, same type) you may be able to replace the packing nut only. Less work than replacing complete valve.

    Are we correct in assuming that this is galvanized iron pipe?
    grumpjoy's Avatar
    grumpjoy Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #8

    Aug 22, 2010, 07:10 AM

    No, brass pipe. I have already checked nuts repacked them and adjusted fits the leak is coming from a small hole that broke out of the valve itself near the threading.
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #9

    Aug 22, 2010, 07:14 AM

    Brass pipes? Afraid if you cut pipes you are going to get into a pipe threading situation. Can you show us a picture.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #10

    Aug 22, 2010, 07:27 AM

    A picture would help, but if the valve is unrepairable and in the middle of a piping arrangement you will need to cut the valve and rejoin using brass nipples and a union fitting as mentioned at my last post... ;)
    Attached Images
     
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #11

    Aug 22, 2010, 07:35 AM

    But Mark, wouldn't he need nipples to fit exactly between the last fitting and the valve? How about a compression coupling? Does Sharkbite make fittings for brass?
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #12

    Aug 22, 2010, 07:41 AM

    I know what you are thinking here, Harold, but even most brass piping arrangements have some movement and using a union should be able to reconnect all together... although I am sure it will be real tight, for sure.

    If there is no movement in the pipes then grumpjoy could always elbow out from the first threaded fitting, pipe up and then elbow back in to the top threaded fitting connecting a union between somewhere... that would work, too. I drew up what I mean to be clear for grumpjoy...

    Could even go copper pipe and sharkbite fittings... again elbowing out and back if needed... see other image.

    Mark
    Attached Images
      
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #13

    Aug 22, 2010, 08:40 AM

    OK, I can go with the Sharkbites.

    Still would like to see that picture.
    grumpjoy's Avatar
    grumpjoy Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #14

    Aug 22, 2010, 09:01 AM

    OK sounds like I need to invest in a plumber.it"s getting too complicated. I cannot budge any connections with large pipe wrenches because there isn't much room to maneuver them and I'm concerned I'll break something else. I did cut the valve in half but still can't detach it from the threaded pipes. Would compression fittings work if I cut the threaded sections off?
    hkstroud's Avatar
    hkstroud Posts: 11,929, Reputation: 899
    Home Improvement & Construction Expert
     
    #15

    Aug 22, 2010, 11:17 AM

    A picture, PLEASE
    grumpjoy's Avatar
    grumpjoy Posts: 6, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #16

    Aug 22, 2010, 08:00 PM

    Final update... the plumber went with Mark's idea He used soldered copper between the threaded brass pipes and the same cutoff you drew. Thank you so much for the help.
    massplumber2008's Avatar
    massplumber2008 Posts: 12,832, Reputation: 1212
    Senior Plumbing Expert
     
    #17

    Aug 23, 2010, 03:27 AM

    Thanks for the update! Glad you're up and running agan!

Not your question? Ask your question View similar questions

 

Question Tools Search this Question
Search this Question:

Advanced Search

Add your answer here.


Check out some similar questions!

Plastic pipe brass fittings? [ 6 Answers ]

Can I use brass compression fittings with 15mm plastic pipe? Thanks!

Pipe Dope recommendations [ 4 Answers ]

Can anyone recommend a good quality PIPE Dope or Joint Compound for Threaded Black Iron Gas Pipe? I know I need to use a good quality product, so I need to know what is the best brand that I can find at a local home improvement store.

Pipe Dope on faucet seat/ [ 11 Answers ]

I have replaced a shower faucet's washer and seat twice but the faucet still leaks a bit. Someone suggested "pipe dope' should be applied to the threads of the seat since the valve body threads may be deteriorating and that is where the leak is coming from. In addition to the new washer and...

Removing brass fittings from Cast Iron pipe [ 3 Answers ]

I need to snake the line under my bathroom sink. The problem is I have a dual sink setup. The vent pipe is also connected there so I have a cast iron cross fitting where the four meet (the two sink drains, the vent pipe, and the drain to the main line). I was attempting to remove one of the...

Teflon or Pipe Dope for 1 1/4" Water Pipe [ 7 Answers ]

I am building a project that uses several joints of 1 1/4 " galvanized pipe, including elbows and Tee's. The unit will be plumbed into my 50 psi water system. What is the best way to seal the pipe joints? I have assembled the unit and tested using teflon pipe dope and had several leaks.


View more questions Search