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    emmeya's Avatar
    emmeya Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #1

    Mar 15, 2006, 03:07 PM
    30's house, washer draining problems
    Hi,
    My washing machine is overflowing from the wall, because, according to the plumber, the 2" PVC that is connected to the old 1 1/2" galvanized pipes doesn't leave enough room to drain when the pump starts on the machine. He thinks the galvanized pipes are probably mostly blocked. He also says I need a 'washer box' installed (I do have the hot and cold faucets, but this is something more?) and that I need a vent, and suggested one that would be in the wall above the washer that would be louvered (stupfer vent? ). My washer is right next to my utility sink and there was talk of taking out the sink to complete this project, which is a little alarming because I’m really attached to my pink 50’s formica counter! Does this sound right? Don’t they usually work up from the crawl space and not have to dismantle the house? He is also saying it will cost around $1200 for the job…does that sound right? I definitely think I should get a second opinion (and I’m definitely not going to do the job myself!), but the answers on here seem so smart and thorough, that I thought I’d ask here too!

    Thanks in advance for opinions!
    Emme.
    speedball1's Avatar
    speedball1 Posts: 29,301, Reputation: 1939
    Eternal Plumber
     
    #2

    Mar 15, 2006, 03:39 PM
    Hi Frank, I think you're getting way overcharged at $1200.00. Washer boxes don't cost that much but you don't really need one. You already have the supplies in place. If I were doing this job I would leave the utility sink where it is. If you have a crawl space where you can run a 2" drain that's just what I would do. Rip out the old washer drain line and replace with 2" PVC. As for the vent I would install a AAV, (see image) cheater vent just after the trap on the tee instead of running a pipe out through the roof. I would mount this AAV on a raiser that extends at least 6" over the rim of the washer stand pipe. If you have access to a crawl area and don't have to break up cement or tear out walls this job should come in at well under 500$ if you contract it out. Try to get three estimates. Good luck, Tom
    emmeya's Avatar
    emmeya Posts: 4, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #3

    Mar 25, 2006, 07:54 PM
    Thanks for the advice, I will do that!
    boneyfreak's Avatar
    boneyfreak Posts: 10, Reputation: 1
    New Member
     
    #4

    Mar 26, 2006, 07:46 PM
    Or... just place the washer discharge into the utility sink, most likely it is large enough to handle the volume from the washer and between cycles will drain away.

    Also you won't run the risk of being exposed to "plumber crack" and traumatized for days after...

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